Wednesday, November 17, 2004
Ramadan in the Middle East - November 2004
Ramadan is the holy fasting month for Muslims all around the world. During daylight hours, Muslims are required to abstain from daily pleasures like eating, drinking, smoking and sex. The fast is typically broken when the sun sets. In the Middle East the breaking of the fast is known as Iftar which involves much revelry and celebration. Tents are erected in hotels, malls and outside almost every mosque for the nightly Iftar parties. A spread of sumptuous Middle Eastern cuisine and the ubiquitous sheesha await the faithful. It is also common for restaurants to offer Iftar banquets during this holy month. Ramadan is a very social event in the Middle East. After a long day’s fast, Muslims will visit friends and relatives to strengthen the ties of brotherhood and bask in the mutual feelings of pride and accomplishment. The Quran dictates that a Muslim is required to pray 5 times daily, but during Ramadan a set of 2 additional prayers is included for the special occasion.
Islamic practices for Ramadan vary from country to country. Generally, most businesses, shops and eateries are closed during daylight hours. Most employees enjoy shorter working hours during Ramadan. In Dubai, the doors to fast food chains are usually closed but their drive-through remains open for the benefit of non-Muslims. Food can be discreetly purchased away from the public eye and thus effectively avoiding any cause for offence to fasting Muslims. The UAE is considerably more open and cosmopolitan than its counterparts in the Gulf. It is a fast growing business and tourist hotspot. Therefore, it has evolved and become far more receptive to the ideas of compromise and adaptation than other states. However, non-Muslims are advised to refrain from eating, drinking and smoking in public as it is considered rude. This understanding and lenient approach bears no legal repercussions against people who choose to do so. In Egypt, non-Muslims can go about their daily business without fear of any ramifications.
It is a completely different situation in Kuwait, where the mighty iron fist of Islam rules! Anyone, regardless of race or religion, caught eating, drinking or smoking in public will run the risk of being persecuted and thrown in jail till the end of Ramadan. For non-Muslims, indulging in these daily routines is permissible in the privacy of your own home, provided your doors are closed and curtains drawn. Should a Kuwaiti spot you through the misfortune of an opened window, to assuage his indignation, he can and will report you!
Ramadan in Kuwait has not been as harrowing an experience as I had imagined. It was relatively easy to survive Ramadan here as I usually did not venture out in the day. It was quite pointless actually, because the malls and shops were closed, even vending machines were turned off. But ironically, the supermarkets remained open 24/7! By day, Kuwait was a veritable ghost town; the streets were empty and almost devoid of people. But when night fell, it was bedlam, the Kuwaitis spilled into the streets and malls. The shops and malls re-opened and stayed open till 2 to 3 am. The roads were choked with horrific traffic and car-parks were filled to capacity. Even kerbs were turned into illegal makeshift parking spaces. Car horns blared and wheels screeched while fireworks exploded in the background, creating a disharmonious racket. And then at 4.30 am, give or take a couple of minutes, Kuwait reveberated with the prayer calls from hundreds of minarets.
Ramadan ended with the congratulatory celebrations of Eid-Al-Fitr followed by 3 days of holiday. More praying, feasting, visiting, back patting and fireworks ensue. And thereafter Kuwaiti life went back to its normal chaotic and incomprehensible self.
Islamic practices for Ramadan vary from country to country. Generally, most businesses, shops and eateries are closed during daylight hours. Most employees enjoy shorter working hours during Ramadan. In Dubai, the doors to fast food chains are usually closed but their drive-through remains open for the benefit of non-Muslims. Food can be discreetly purchased away from the public eye and thus effectively avoiding any cause for offence to fasting Muslims. The UAE is considerably more open and cosmopolitan than its counterparts in the Gulf. It is a fast growing business and tourist hotspot. Therefore, it has evolved and become far more receptive to the ideas of compromise and adaptation than other states. However, non-Muslims are advised to refrain from eating, drinking and smoking in public as it is considered rude. This understanding and lenient approach bears no legal repercussions against people who choose to do so. In Egypt, non-Muslims can go about their daily business without fear of any ramifications.
It is a completely different situation in Kuwait, where the mighty iron fist of Islam rules! Anyone, regardless of race or religion, caught eating, drinking or smoking in public will run the risk of being persecuted and thrown in jail till the end of Ramadan. For non-Muslims, indulging in these daily routines is permissible in the privacy of your own home, provided your doors are closed and curtains drawn. Should a Kuwaiti spot you through the misfortune of an opened window, to assuage his indignation, he can and will report you!
Ramadan in Kuwait has not been as harrowing an experience as I had imagined. It was relatively easy to survive Ramadan here as I usually did not venture out in the day. It was quite pointless actually, because the malls and shops were closed, even vending machines were turned off. But ironically, the supermarkets remained open 24/7! By day, Kuwait was a veritable ghost town; the streets were empty and almost devoid of people. But when night fell, it was bedlam, the Kuwaitis spilled into the streets and malls. The shops and malls re-opened and stayed open till 2 to 3 am. The roads were choked with horrific traffic and car-parks were filled to capacity. Even kerbs were turned into illegal makeshift parking spaces. Car horns blared and wheels screeched while fireworks exploded in the background, creating a disharmonious racket. And then at 4.30 am, give or take a couple of minutes, Kuwait reveberated with the prayer calls from hundreds of minarets.
Ramadan ended with the congratulatory celebrations of Eid-Al-Fitr followed by 3 days of holiday. More praying, feasting, visiting, back patting and fireworks ensue. And thereafter Kuwaiti life went back to its normal chaotic and incomprehensible self.
Tuesday, November 16, 2004
Eternal Egypt - October 2004
CAIRO
Exiting a rather decrepit and disordered Cairo International Airport, I was pleasantly welcomed by a cool misty 20 C morning. What a wonderful start to my magical time in Eternal Egypt. I have always been fascinated by the ancient Egyptians and to visit Egypt has been a dream. For me, coming to Egypt has been like fulfilling a pilgrimage. The journey from the airport to the Hilton Ramses was unhindered as the roads were eerily quiet. All was calm on this beautiful early morning, illuminated by the soft glow of an orange sun just rising above the horizon. Egypt is not an exceptionally affluent country, poverty and corruption is rife. It relies heavily on agriculture, made possible by the life giving waters and fertile silt brought by the mighty River Nile, the world’s longest river. The thriving tourism industry plays an important role in the Egyptian economy. As I would soon discover, Egypt is an incredibly popular tourist destination for the international masses. I had an erroneous misconception that travelling to Egypt during Ramadan would be a delicate and complicated affair. Unlike several other Middle Eastern countries, Egypt does not implement laws that persecute non-Muslims who do not observe the practices that Ramadan entails. Most shops are open for business and non-Muslims are permitted to go about their normal routine without consequence.
Arriving at the hotel, I noticed a buffer zone around the entrance to the hotel, where only authorised personnel and vehicles were permitted to enter. Upon entering the hotel, bags are x-rayed and guests have to walk through metal detector gates. These are but a few of the several security measures placed to bolster tourists’ confidence. Terrorist threats are very real as demonstrated by the recent hotel bombing at Sinai. And the senseless massacre of innocent tourists at Luxor in 1997 is still fresh on people’s minds. Although Egypt is an Islamic country, it is more secular compared to other Islamic states. Therefore, disgruntled Islamic extremists who disapprove of the country’s relative liberalism which they confuse for moral degradation, are campaigning through violence for a more restrictive, austere and insular country. At tourist venues, numerous men clad in white uniforms and armed with AK-47s stand guard. These are the ubiquitous and underpaid Tourism and Antiquities Police. Military and regular police patrol the streets and sights alongside the tourism police. Larger tourist groups are accompanied by men in suits armed with semi-automatic weapons.
Having settled into the hotel room, which exuded a decidedly old world charm, I caught my first excited glimpse of the magnificent River Nile from the balcony which offered a commanding view of the city. Across the river, albeit shrouded by smog, soaring high above the city was the Cairo Tower. Cairo is the largest city in the Middle East and Africa and the world’s second most polluted. Innumerable cars, many very badly battered and dating back to the 60’s and 70’s, spewed dense black fumes into the atmosphere further contributing to the deterioration of air quality and visibility. Donkey carts shared the already heaving and over crowded roads. The booming tourist trade has produced inherent petty crimes like hustling, harassment, scams and pickpockets. To avoid falling prey to these scoundrels, common sense and awareness are key. By late morning Cairo has woken up and the streets are filled with the mayhem of traffic and frenzied hordes of people.
Near The Citadel laid the medieval Cities of the Dead, one of the world’s largest necropolises. It is home to some of the finest Islamic architecture in Cairo. There are tombs, mosques and spectacular mausoleums. It is also home to several hundred thousand Egyptians who are very much alive. This peculiar graveyard even has its own streets, house numbers, regular bus and postal services! The exodus of inhabitants from the countryside to the city, coupled with low-income and housing shortage instigated the transformation of tombs into dwellings. The enormous Citadel housed 3 large mosques, a palace and several museums within its high walls. However, the main attraction was undoubtedly the Muhammad Ali Mosque with its distinctive metallic domes. It is more popularly known as The Alabaster Mosque as the mosque is adorned inside and out with elaborately carved alabaster, even its huge fountain of ablutions found in the centre of the courtyard is made from alabaster. Overlooking the expansive courtyard is a never functional French tower clock. A worthless gift from King Louis Philippe after Muhammad Ali presented France with an obelisk, which still stands today at Place de la Concorde in Paris, from Luxor tem
ple in 1845. Entering the mosque, the tomb of Muhammad Ali can be found on the right. Within the centre of the mosque hung a huge chandelier surrounded by 365 little lanterns. Looking up, the domes were ornately decorated in intricate gold, rich greens and warm reds. Strangely this Islamic place of worship architecturally reeks of European influence. By the exit, the terrace offered a panoramic view of the whole of Cairo, on clear days, even the Pyramids of Giza are visible. Actually, the layout is suspiciously reminiscent of the Sacré Cœur and its equally impressive and unobstructed view of Paris. For those interested in Islamic art and architecture, other venues worth visiting are the beautifully decorated Sultan Hassan Mosque, the stupendous Rifa’i Mosque and the fortress like Mosque of Ibn Tulun.
The world renowned Egyptian Museum lies in the very heart of Cairo. Despite the cacophony from the maddening throng of tourists and their guides, it is a definite must see on any itinerary. The Egyptian Museum unfortunately displays only a cast replica of the Rosetta Stone; the original resides in the British Museum. The trilingual Rosetta Stone was the all important key to decoding and deciphering the ancient hieroglyphics. The Rosetta Stone contained passages celebrating the crowning of King Ptolemy V, carved in hieroglyphics, Demotic and Greek script. Shockingly, the museum has the look and feel of an old warehouse. It is depressing that the world’s greatest artefacts are housed in such inadequate facilities. However, the good news is that a new bigger and better equipped museum is under construction and due for completion in 2007. But for now within its dusty interior, priceless relics remain haphazardly arranged, wooden crates lie in disarray, signs and labels are either missing or brief and un-insightful. It is important to note that photography in the museum is strictly prohibited. All bags are searched at the entrance and cameras are temporarily seized and kept in numbered lockers. The Egyptian Museum is home, amongst others, to the magnificent treasures of the famed boy pharaoh Tutankhamon, whose tomb was the most intact ever discovered. The Tutankhamon Room is located on the second floor and is undoubtedly the main attraction of the museum. On display are his elaborately crafted coffin and funerary mask made from about 200 kg and 4 kg of solid gold respectively. Each is exquisitely inlaid with semi precious stones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, quartz and cornelian. His blood stained calcite canopic jars containing his embalmed lungs, liver, stomach and intestines, are enshrined in a gilded canopic chest whose 4 corners are carved with the images of Isis, Nephthys, Selkis and Neith with hands outstretched to encompass and protect them. Even Tutankhamon’s undergarments are unceremoniously displayed for the world to see. There are also his richly decorated and gilded mummification beds, ceremonial thrones, sarcophagus shrines, statues, jewellery, weapons, alabaster lamps, amulets and many more fantastic treasures. Artefacts belonging to pharaohs and nobles from the Old, Middle and New Kingdom are also found in other parts of the cavernous museum.
The Papyrus Institute is found en route to the Giza Plateau. It is allegedly supported and approved by the government as a genuine papyrus manufacturer. It is worth a visit as the staff explains and deftly demonstrates how papyrus is made. The papyrus was significant to the ancient Egyptians as the stem of this reed is triangular. The three sides of the thick green exterior of the stem are stripped to reveal the soft white pulp. The flesh is subsequently sliced into thin strips. The strips are then hammered with a mallet and flattened with a rolling pin to rid it of excess fluids. The battered strips are then soaked in water to remove cellulose. The final colour of the papyrus is determined by the duration that it is soaked. The longer it is soaked, the darker the colour of the papyrus becomes. Finally, the strips are closely weaved together and pressed till they are dried. On sale are papyrus with beautifully reproduced ancient Egyptian art depicting gods and goddesses, pharaohs and their queens, astrology, scenes from the Book of the Dead and many others. There are also papyrus with empty cartouches that can be filled with our names in hieroglyphics. A cartouche is a decorative rope that magically surrounds the names of royalty, gods, nobility and high priests.
GIZA
Driving along a street by a tributary of the River Nile, I noticed the abject poverty and squalor that some Egyptians live in. On the dusty, dirty and overcrowded street, people go about their daily routine. Farmers sell their produce from donkey carts laden with bright orange carrots, cabbages and other fruits and vegetables. Garbage inundated the tributary, drifting carcasses of animals were decomposing in the sun and attracting swarms of flies. And yet, people were washing their clothes, fishing and children were swimming in the foul waters, oblivious to the stench and filth surrounding them. And in the background, amidst the hustle and bustle, noise and smells, loomed the extraordinary Pyramids of Giza.
In the middle of this underprivileged suburb, we arrived at a sandy square flanked by houses and little shops. There were several emaciated and smelly camels sitting listlessly in the square. This was the camel stable. The camel owner operated out of a dark and tiny shop that looked out to the square. A camel ride is a wonderful way of experiencing the desert terrain of the Giza Plateau and its monuments. But it was upsetting that the camels were in such a deplorable state. The camels were underfed and malnourished, had open sores, their harnesses were eating into the skin at the back of their heads and flies were constantly circling them. The saddle were positioned over the camel’s hump and draped with thick multicoloured rugs. After climbing onto the saddle and placing feet into stirrups, the camel stood up on the guide’s command and the journey began. Led by the guides, the camels plodded slowly through numerous garbage strewn alleyways. Being perched on the camel, high above ground level presented a marvellous view and rare peeks into the backyards and homes of people. The rocking and swaying motion of my camel, Selma, was utterly hypnotic. She was very sweet natured and docile with big round eyes peeping through impossibly long eyelashes and a pert and adorable muzzle.
Eventually, the Pyramids of Giza came into view. I was completely overwhelmed with awe. As we neared the desert plateau, my excitement grew with each of Selma’s soft but surefooted step. The guides would periodically stop the camels to explain certain sites, like the workers’ tombs and to take our pictures. The length, distance and destination of the camel rides are determined by the riders. The more adventurous can be led further out to the top of dunes and hills to view from a distance, the pyramids of Saqqara on the other side. I was spellbound by the sight of the Pyramids of Giza and The Sphinx. The Great Pyramid of Cheops, the only remaining wonder of the ancient world that it still standing, originally stood 146 metres high, but after a course of four and a half millennia its height has decreased by 9 metres. The Pyramid of Chephren, built by Cheops’ son, may be smaller in stature by a mere 3 metres, but it has to be undoubtedly Egypt’s finest pyramid. The original limestone casing that used to entirely envelop all the pyramids, still sheathes the apex of this magnificent pyramid. Next to it stands the considerably smaller Pyramid of Mycerinus, Chephren’s son. All 3 pyramids have smaller satellite pyramids of their respective queens. After the camel ride, we were driven to the foot of the larger pyramids. I felt humbled by the sheer magnitude of these goliaths. The Great Pyramid was constructed with an astounding 2.3 million limestone blocks, each weighing 2.5 tons. Getting up close, actually touching and looking up at the pyramids was sheer ecstasy. The skill and precision of the ancient Egyptian engineers is baffling and truly astonishing. Sadly, the external limestone casing was stripped to build the many mosques that now stand in Cairo. The pyramids have been subjected to centuries of vandalism and desecration, evident by the wide spread graffiti carved into the blocks. However, it is easy to imagine how 
the pyramids must stood as blinding beacons of light during ancient days, when the rays of the desert sun were reflected by their perfectly smooth limestone casing and the gold capstones that used to crown them. Situated next to the Valley Temple of Chephren is the enigmatic and ever smiling Sphinx, silently standing guard over the pyramids and watching the millennia pass by. Unfortunately, time has not been kind to the Sphinx. It has suffered greatly from erosion, been defaced by vandals and used for target practice by the Ottomans. Nonetheless, these ancient structures have defied all and withstood the ravages of time to emerge as triumphant testaments to the absolute power and authority of the ancient pharaohs. But when leaving the site, it was disturbing to observe how close civilisation has encroached upon these timeless monuments.
ASWAN
After a short one hour flight on an aged and dingy Egyptian Airway’s aircraft, we arrived south, in Aswan. Aswan was a welcome change from the hectic and maddening chaos that was Cairo. Aswan is much smaller, less populated and definitely slower paced that the country’s capital. After leaving the ghost town of an airport, we made our way to the docks on the east bank. Berthed along these banks was a fleet of cruise ships poised to ply the route between Aswan and Luxor. We boarded our ship the MS Nile Symphony, checked in and inspected the facilities. Again, the surroundings and décor were very old world. The cabin was tiny but it redeemed itself with its huge windows that provided an unobstructed and excellent view of the river and its banks. In this small room, they managed to fit in a queen sized bed, a mini bar and a tiny en suite toilet and shower. On the deck of this 4 storey ship was a modestly sized swimming pool encircled by deck chairs. There was also a large canopy with lots of tables and chairs to enjoy our drinks on and watch the world go by. And in the middle, an air-conditioned bar cum lounging area which when night fell, transformed into a club complete with dance floor. It certainly was not the QE2, but it was adequate. Feluccas (native sailboats) drifted serenely by on the rippled emerald waters of the Nile as we sipped our welcome drink. Across the river was a high hill perforated with holes and surmounted by a domed shrine, this was the Necropolis of the Princes.
After breakfast we boarded a bus which ferried us to the Soviet designed Aswan High Dam. The towering lotus blossom inspired Soviet-Egyptian Friendship monument is located at the entrance. Following in the steps of their ancient forefathers, the modern Egyptians have continued the tradition of building structures of mind blowing proportions and grandeur. The dam is 3.6 km long, 1 km thick at the base and 100 metres high. The dam was built to address and improve Egypt’s agricultural and electrical needs. This is currently the world’s second largest dam, but once the Three Gorges Dam in China is completed, it will be relegated to third place. Behind this gargantuan dam is Lake Nasser, the world largest man-made reservoir which stretches for 550 km and at some points have depths of 200 metres. The Aswan high dam is heavily guarded, continuously under military surveillance and equipped with radar and anti-aircraft missiles. Because if the dam ever came under attack and was destroyed, the catastrophic deluge that would ensue, will wipe out 98% of the entire Egyptian population. Construction of this dam also posed a threat of submersion for many of Egypt’s historical temples. 18 sites and monuments were identified to be at risk, but thankfully all have been saved 
albeit at a hefty price. Egypt could only afford to salvage some of its treasures, as projects of this scale and nature were unquestionably cost intensive. This logistical nightmare required whole temples to be cut up, moved to a new location and reassembled. When their funds grew scarce, the Egyptian government appealed to the international community to help save these treasures. Several countries responded, but conditions applied! Today entire Egyptian temples take pride of place in several American and European museums.
PHILAE
A short distance away was one of Egypt’s most beautiful temples, the breathtaking Temple of Philae, dedicated to the goddess Isis. The temple can only be reached by motorboat as it is situated on an island. Originally the temple stood on Philae Island but was partially submerged when the Old Dam was built in 1902. With the help of UNESCO, the Egyptian Antiquities Department successfully moved the entire complex to its new home on nearby Agilkia Island. The Temple of Philae is one of the three best preserved temples in Egypt, the other two being those in Edfu and Dendera. From a distance, the temple looked stunning and radiated a palpable air of romanticism. Disembarking the boat, we arrived at the outer courtyard lined on both sides by imposing bell shaped columns with papyrus flower and Hathorian (i.e. bearing images of the goddess Hathor) capitals carved in incredible detail. At the front of the outer courtyard were the massive first pylons, these are tall twin trapezoid structures that are positioned at both the entrance of the temple’s inner courtyard and at the entrance of the temple’s inner sanctum. The walls of the pylons are carved with giant images of the gods, goddess and pharaoh. At the gates of the first pylon, 2 granite lion sentinels flank the entrance. Cleopatra’s needle was originally erected at Philae Temple but now stands on the embankment of the River Thames in London; all tha
t remains on the temple grounds is the severed base of this famed obelisk. The walls and columns of the inner courtyard are completely filled with intricate and detailed hieroglyphic carvings, each dramatically telling a different story. The level of excellence in the workmanship of the artisans and scribes is extraordinary. Past the second pylons, we entered the temple and its sacred innermost sanctum where the statue of Isis would have been enshrined. Again, any exposed walls, roof or columns were painstakingly carved with hieroglyphs. Sadly, the Temple of Philae has not escaped unscathed from the passage of time. Early Christians converted this gorgeous temple into a church. Coptic crosses were carved into the walls and holes indiscriminately gouged into the walls for affixing candle holders and tie ups for donkeys and horses. Vandals dating back from ancient to medieval times left their marks by chiselling names and dates in a multitude of different scripts. It was also heartbreaking to see so many images of the gods and pharaohs mercilessly defaced. Nonetheless, it is comforting that the temple is still standing relatively intact for future generations to appreciate and enjoy.
Boarding the cruise ship, we set sail at a leisurely 17mph for Edfu. Lounging on the deck, enjoying the breeze and a cold beer while watching rural life on the banks of the Nile passing by was utterly enchanting! Along the fertile banks of the river were belts of verdant vegetation with flora like papyrus reeds, date palms, banana plants, sugar cane and other shrubs. Farmers tended to their plots of arable land and women washed clothes by the river’s edge. Squealing children frolicked in the waters while feluccas sailed passively by. Camels, horses, donkeys, cows and goats grazed lazily on the lush greenery, while their herdsmen languidly watched over them. And yet clearly visible and looming ominously behind the luxuriant foliage was the harsh and desolate desert landscape. It was such a stark contrast.
KOM OMBO
A few hours later we arrived and docked at Kom Ombo which is situated between Aswan and Edfu. The minute we stepped on dry land, we were accosted by a flock of children and adolescents in unwashed clothes. They brandished postcards, scarves and little trinkets in their grimy hands. Baleful eyes looked out from dirty faces while they pleaded piteously in a variety of foreign tongues with tourists to buy their wares. It was disheartening to see children and youths in such wretched states. Winding up a long path, the temple came into sight. The Temple of Kom Ombo may be in ruins, but is nonetheless worth a visit as it still strikes an imposing figure. Entering the compound, on the right, was the small but intact Chapel of Hathor where 3 mummified crocodiles were on display. Only one of the great pylons still exists albeit in a state of disrepair and parts of the enormous roof supported by the gargantuan columns of the hypostyle (multi-pillared) hall of the temple still endures. The temple was unusually styled as it was dedicated to 2 Egyptian gods. Sobek, the crocodile headed god and Horus, the falcon headed god, shared this double temple. As a result, the temple is symmetrical throughout with identical but separate twin halls, colonnades, doorways, chambers and sanctuaries. The right side of the temple consecrated Sobek and the left Horus. Most of the roof, columns and walls were either missing or in pieces. But what remained was truly fantastic, as always, every conceivable space was etched meticulously with detailed hieroglyphics. Remarkably, many of the hieroglyphs still retained their original, albeit slightly faded colours. Vibrant reds, blues, greens and yellows can still be discerned. What a sight to behold this majestic temple must have been during its heyday, when its resplendent hues covered every inch and hieroglyph of its grounds. As ancient Egyptian life, religion and culture revolved around and depended on the annual flooding of the Nile, any information collected was of significant interest. Hence, 
to the left of the temple a huge well with a staircase spiralling down its walls was constructed. This was the Nilometer; it was used by ancient priests of the temple to measure the water levels of the Nile. Looking out at the stupendous view of the Nile from the temple’s terrace, we noticed strange cloud formations in the dusky sky. Above the temple, the clouds formed little tornado shapes, as if to remind us that this sacred site still possessed magic and power of the heavens. What a special way to end a day! Returning to the ship, we continued on our meandering journey towards Edfu in the silence of the night.
EDFU
After a restful night’s sleep, we disembarked at Edfu and a bus transported us into the midst of this small and otherwise unimportant town. Gaudy carriages drawn by frightfully skinny and overworked horses ferried tourists to a most unusual destination. Located right in the heart of this busy little town, and totally incongruous with its surroundings of dilapidated houses and shops, was the stunning Temple of Horus. This fabulous temple’s near perfect state of preservation is unrivalled in the whole of Egypt. I was completely mesmerised by its splendour. Before excavation work began, the temple was buried under sand and rubble. And the natives of Edfu unknowingly built houses over the temple’s roof. This glorious complex stands now, more or less, as it did millennia ago. The miraculously intact compound, contained the sanctuary dedicated to Horus with its original 4m high tabernacle hewn from a single block of grey granite. The almost undamaged walls and grand pylons exemplified the grandeur and scale of ancient Egyptian temple architecture. Naturally, they were intricately inscribed with numerous depictions of the pharaohs and the gods, Horus and Hathor. On guard at the entrance to the temple was a pair of rather badly chipped granite statues of the falcon, a manifestation of Horus. At the entrance to the inner sanctum, was another pair of these regal granite falcons. The one on the left was in phenomenal condition, it escaped the ravages of time relatively unscathed. Artfully sculpted, it proudly wore its granite double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. Its twin on the right however, did not fare as well, only its top half remained. Again, every exposed surface of the walls, columns and ceiling in the temple and its courtyard was decorated with elaborate hieroglyphics. However, many faces of the figures portrayed were chiselled away by early monotheistic Christians, namely the Copts. Some parts of ceilings were badly charred, indicative of the period when the Copts disrespectfully used this temple as a place to store and burn their garbage. But thankfully the majority of the temple and its reliefs have survived and remained unmolested, so that the legacy and unsurpassed artistry of the ancient Egyptian craftsmen can live on. Overcome with awe and respect, we left the temple of Edfu and headed back to our ship.
ESNA
From Edfu we set sail and resumed our journey towards Esna. The rustic landscape continued to captivate me. Little settlements of mud bricks houses started to make their appearance on the banks. Mosques and their tell tale minarets, inexplicably sprouted in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere. But abruptly, the spoils of industry reared its ugly head and marred the pristine scenery. Along the banks, enormous factories expelled thick billowy plumes of smoke from their soaring chimneystacks. Large cylindrical pipes discharged industrial waste into the river. It was a tragic sight. A few hours later we neared Esna, another little town which concealed its own treasure, the Temple of Khnum, honouring the ram headed creator god. Eventually, the long procession of cruise ships came to berth at Esna, where a long bridge spanned across both banks. Around 20 ships docked along the banks of this sleepy town, patiently awaiting their turn to traverse the narrow swing bridge on the east bank. Having passed that, we entered a holding area and waited with the rest of the fleet to enter and pass through Esna Lock. The lock could only move 2 ships at a time, and there were more ships on the other side trying to get to our end. It was a long and arduous process which took the better part of a day to complete. Near dusk, amidst the haunting prayer calls that reverberated from the numerous minarets in Esna, we finally entered the lock. The heavy front and back gates groaned shut, and the sluice gates were opened, allowing the trapped water in the lock to steadily escape. The water level receded and the walls of the lock rose high above us. Eventually we reached the same water level as the other side and the gates slowly swung open. Our ship expertly navigated out of the confines of the lock, and we sailed deep into the night towards Luxor.
LUXOR CITY
Luxor, formerly known as Thebes, was the ancient capital of Upper and Lower Egypt during the reign of the pharaohs of the New Kingdom. As such it has a high concentration of important sites such as the famed Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Temple of Hatshepsut, The Ramesseum, Colossi of Memnon, Temple of Ramses III and the less reknowned Valley of the Artisans, Tomb of the Nobles, Temple of Seti I and many others. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that Luxor is such a popular a tourist hotspot.
COLOSSI OF MEMNON
All that remains of what used to be the largest mortuary temple on the west bank are a pair of colossal statues of the pharaoh Amon- Ofis III (also known as Amenhotep III). The temple unfortunately has completely disappeared, leaving behind only a few scattered blocks. The 20 m statues have been very badly damaged by earthquakes and vandals. The statues of the seated pharaoh have been pieced back together, but sadly, the finish is very uneven. Many details like the face, arms and feet are no longer distinguishable but some hieroglyphs carved on the throne have been salvaged and restored. Despite the appreciably damaged and disfigured appearance of the colossi, they still manage to enthral by their sheer size.
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
Snaking our way into the Valley of the Kings, we passed the multi-domed sandstone bungalow that was Howard Carter’s home. Howard Carter was the celebrated archaeologist responsible for discovering the small tomb of Tutankhamon and its unparalleled treasures in 1922. This valley was chosen by the pharaohs of the New Kingdom for practical and symbolic reasons. The practical aspects were that the site was relatively secluded and remote making it an ideal location for a royal necropolis. Symbolically, there was a natural pyramidal formation at the valley’s highest peak, which the ancient Egyptians venerated as Meretseger but is known today as El-Qurn. At the entrance of the valley, we took a tram into its centre. Featureless cliffs and solid rock walls bordered this barren and extensive valley. To date, more than 64 known tombs honeycomb this sacred site. To preserve the tombs, usually 8 are opened to the public at any one time. Every few months the open tombs are rotated to ensure they get a chance to recuperate from the massive human traffic they attract. The gravel paths leading to the myriad tombs are clearly marked. At the entrance of each tomb are signs detailing their layouts and brief descriptions of the interior. Each ticket allowed entry to 3 tombs except the tomb of Tutankhamon which required a separate ticket. We entered the royal tombs of Ramses III, Ramses IV and Ramses VII. These subterranean Ramessid tombs shared a common design. They were constructed with a straight axis, with long gentle sloping corridors that ultimately led to the burial chamber where their massive stone sarcophagi laid. Along the corridors were antechambers, storerooms and canopic niches. Among the three, the tomb of Ramses III was the largest and grandest with its cavernous pillared halls, while the tomb of Ramses VII was the smallest but by no means least decorated. The walls and ceilings of the tombs were entirely filled with vividly coloured and very well preserved hieroglyphics. The dazzling ceilings were painted with images of celestial beings and heavenly bodies. The intricately carved and painted walls and rooms depicted passages from the Litany of Re, Book of the Dead, Book of the Earth, Book of the Heavens, Book of Gates, the Amduat and countless spells to protect the tombs and lead the pharaohs safely into the Afterlife. Had the tombs not been plundered in antiquity, they would have been customarily filled to the brim with the pharaohs’ wondrous treasures, funerary equipment and other possessions that they would have needed for the afterlife. To put 
things in perspective, it is essential to mention that Tutankhamon was actually a minor pharaoh whose reign was short and rather insignificant. His treasures would have paled miserably in comparison to those contained in the leviathan tombs of the true greats like Ramses II and Seti I. Sadly, most of the tombs in the valley have not evaded the scourge of vandals, graffiti was clearly visible in the tombs we visited. And shockingly, these tombs were desecrated by the early Copts who used them as homes, churches and stables.
DEIR EL-BAHARI
Leaving the Valley of the Kings, we headed for the architectural masterpiece that is the Temple of Hatshepsut. Situated next to it are the ruins of the mortuary temple of Mentuhotep I, built 500 years earlier. Queen Hatshepsut was a maverick. She commissioned the construction of this revolutionary mortuary temple, set against a backdrop of sheer limestone cliffs that fan out dramatically on both sides of the temple. She usurped her young step-son’s (Tuthmosis III) claim to the throne and became the only woman, albeit a cross dresser, in the history of ancient Egypt to ever assume the role of pharaoh, a title that was exclusively reserved for men. She organised an expedition to the mysterious country of Punt, assumed to be modern day Somalia, where her people returned with exotic objects like ebony, ivory, panther skins and other novel items. Her birth, childhood and exploits were chronicled on the extensively frescoed walls of the temple. Surprisingly, many scenes still maintained their original colours. A long causeway leads to the temple at the base of the cliff. In ancient times, this causeway was lined on both sides with exotic plants and trees, an amazing feat in itself considering the unrelenting heat that this desert climate is subjected to. Even today, a pair of 3400 year old ebony tree stumps still endures at the site. The temple is made up of 3 levels of columned terraces built with 2 wide ramps to reach the sanctuary located at the top. The inner sanctum was cut into the solid rock face of the cliff. It was converted into a monastery by the Copts and was badly damaged and defaced. The courtyards of the two terraces were incredibly wide and spacious. The third terrace is supported by a row of elegant and beautifully carved Osirian (bearing the image of Osiris) pillars, however, only a handful of these statues remained intact. The sumptuously decorated shrines dedicated to Hathor and Anubis are found at the back walls of the central courtyard. After Hatshepsut’s mysterious death, her successor Tuthmosis III, whose right to power and authority eluded him for 20 years, exacted his revenge by virtually removing all traces of her names and replacing it with his own.
KARNAK
The Temple of Karnak astounded with its sheer dimensions. The area covered by its monuments was divided into three by rough brick walls. The central area, the largest and best preserved, covered 30 hectares and was dedicated to the sun god, Amon. Covering 2½ hectares on the left was the rectangular domain of Montu, the god of war. On the other side and under the dominion of Amon’s wife Mut, spanned her 9 hectare sanctuary which was connected to her husband’s by a passage lined on both sides with ram headed sphinxes. Over the centuries pharaohs of the New Kingdom, fuelled by narcissism and in attempts to outdo the last, left their mark and demonstrated their omnipotence by adding new extensions to the complex. As a result, Karnak Temple holds the title of world’s largest temple supported by columns. The temple grew with the contributions of the greats like Seti II, Ramses II, Ramses III, Tuthmosis I, Tuthmosis III, Hatshepsut and several others. We entered the great Temple of Amon through the Avenue of the Rams, another boulevard lined by ram headed sphinxes, and passed through the grand but uncompleted first pylons. On the left was the shrine built by Seti II honouring the Theban triad of Amon-Ra, Mut and Khonsu. In the Great Court, the 15 metre high colossus of Pinedjem is dwarfed by a lone surviving 21 metre high open papyrus column in the Pavilion of Taharqa. To the right was a temple built by Ramses III and in excellent condition. Its entrance was flanked by a pair of statues of the pharaoh, one in a better state than the other. Its large open court is lined by 20 Osirian pillars measuring 7 metres in height and within the temple were the 3 inner chambers. Unfailingly, every surface was carved with hieroglyphics. Past the second pylons of the temple, we entered a veritable forest of monoliths. This was the unequalled Great Hypostyle Hall, yet another record holder, it is the largest of its kind in the world. This was the epitome of pharaonic architecture. The hall consisted of 134 decorated columns each a lofty 23 metres high. The circumference of the open papyrus flower capitals was a staggering 15 metres. The exacting standards and precision of the ancient architects and engineers who created this enormous hall, gave form to a play of light and shadow that elicited powerful emotions which was nothing short of theatrical. Beyond this hall past the third pylons were the obelisks of Tuthmosis I, each 23 metres high and weighing 143 tons, unfortunately only a solitary obelisk remains. Beyond yet another pylon stood Hatshepsut’s obelisk, at 30 metres tall and weighing 
200 tons, it surpassed her father’s (Tuthmosis I) and is Egypt’s tallest obelisk. Deeper into the complex and past even more pylons and the Central Court, was the fairly well preserved dark red hypostyle Festival Hall of Tuthmosis III. The Sacred Lake to the right, measured 120 metres by 77 metres, the sacred water was used by the priests for purification before the commencement of their daily sanctified rituals. Other noteworthy monuments and sites are the gigantic granite scarab beetle, the remaining upper half of the obelisk of Amon-Ofis III, the Temple of Khonsu, the Temple of Opet, the Temple of Ptah, the Temple of Amon-Ofis II and the Chapel of Tuthmosis III. Exploring this vast and intriguing site was exhausting and time consuming, but the rewards were well worth the effort!
LUXOR TEMPLE
Luxor Temple was dedicated to Amon-Ra, king of the gods. It was considerably smaller compared to its big brother in Karnak. Luxor Temple was originally connected to Karnak Temple by a long passageway flanked by sphinxes. Work is still in progress to unearth this road and restore it to its former glory. However, the end portion of this avenue can be seen at the entrance of Luxor Temple. In front of the enormous first pylons, three of the original six Colossi of Ramses II still exists. The two seated statues guard the entrance to the temple; both are in fairly good condition. A towering red granite obelisk flanked the doorways; its twin was carted off by the French and now graces the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Past the triumphal entrance, we entered the largest chamber of the temple, the multi columned Courtyard of Ramses II. Numerous decapitated statues of Osiris stood between the double rows of bell shaped columns with closed papyrus capitals. On the right was the tiny Chapel of the Theban triad and on the left, looking completely out of place, was the Mosque of Abu al-Haggag. The mosque was built into the courtyard by the Fatimids in 1077 and is still used today. Through the Colonnade of Amon-Ofis III, past its mammoth columns with open papyrus capitals, we entered his courtyard. The Courtyard of Amon-Ofis III was surrounded by uniquely designed columns. Each column was carved to look like a cluster of tightly packed reeds topped with closed papyrus capitals. And collectively, the columns evoked imaginings of a stony marsh. Beyond the courtyard was the 22 columned hypostyle hall that led into the intimate and sacred inner sanctum with its maze of antechambers and side chapels. Inscribed throughout the temple walls were hieroglyphics, some in better condition than others, depicting the birth, coronation, military exploits of the pharaoh as well as scenes from the religious Festival of Opet.
After Luxor, we flew back to the pandemonium of Cairo. And with that, my amazing visit to Egypt came to an end. But this magical experience has been indelibly etched into my memory. Regrettably, I could not visit all the sights of Egypt, it would have taken forever to do so! But what I have seen, will sustain me for a lifetime!
Exiting a rather decrepit and disordered Cairo International Airport, I was pleasantly welcomed by a cool misty 20 C morning. What a wonderful start to my magical time in Eternal Egypt. I have always been fascinated by the ancient Egyptians and to visit Egypt has been a dream. For me, coming to Egypt has been like fulfilling a pilgrimage. The journey from the airport to the Hilton Ramses was unhindered as the roads were eerily quiet. All was calm on this beautiful early morning, illuminated by the soft glow of an orange sun just rising above the horizon. Egypt is not an exceptionally affluent country, poverty and corruption is rife. It relies heavily on agriculture, made possible by the life giving waters and fertile silt brought by the mighty River Nile, the world’s longest river. The thriving tourism industry plays an important role in the Egyptian economy. As I would soon discover, Egypt is an incredibly popular tourist destination for the international masses. I had an erroneous misconception that travelling to Egypt during Ramadan would be a delicate and complicated affair. Unlike several other Middle Eastern countries, Egypt does not implement laws that persecute non-Muslims who do not observe the practices that Ramadan entails. Most shops are open for business and non-Muslims are permitted to go about their normal routine without consequence.
Arriving at the hotel, I noticed a buffer zone around the entrance to the hotel, where only authorised personnel and vehicles were permitted to enter. Upon entering the hotel, bags are x-rayed and guests have to walk through metal detector gates. These are but a few of the several security measures placed to bolster tourists’ confidence. Terrorist threats are very real as demonstrated by the recent hotel bombing at Sinai. And the senseless massacre of innocent tourists at Luxor in 1997 is still fresh on people’s minds. Although Egypt is an Islamic country, it is more secular compared to other Islamic states. Therefore, disgruntled Islamic extremists who disapprove of the country’s relative liberalism which they confuse for moral degradation, are campaigning through violence for a more restrictive, austere and insular country. At tourist venues, numerous men clad in white uniforms and armed with AK-47s stand guard. These are the ubiquitous and underpaid Tourism and Antiquities Police. Military and regular police patrol the streets and sights alongside the tourism police. Larger tourist groups are accompanied by men in suits armed with semi-automatic weapons.
Having settled into the hotel room, which exuded a decidedly old world charm, I caught my first excited glimpse of the magnificent River Nile from the balcony which offered a commanding view of the city. Across the river, albeit shrouded by smog, soaring high above the city was the Cairo Tower. Cairo is the largest city in the Middle East and Africa and the world’s second most polluted. Innumerable cars, many very badly battered and dating back to the 60’s and 70’s, spewed dense black fumes into the atmosphere further contributing to the deterioration of air quality and visibility. Donkey carts shared the already heaving and over crowded roads. The booming tourist trade has produced inherent petty crimes like hustling, harassment, scams and pickpockets. To avoid falling prey to these scoundrels, common sense and awareness are key. By late morning Cairo has woken up and the streets are filled with the mayhem of traffic and frenzied hordes of people.
Near The Citadel laid the medieval Cities of the Dead, one of the world’s largest necropolises. It is home to some of the finest Islamic architecture in Cairo. There are tombs, mosques and spectacular mausoleums. It is also home to several hundred thousand Egyptians who are very much alive. This peculiar graveyard even has its own streets, house numbers, regular bus and postal services! The exodus of inhabitants from the countryside to the city, coupled with low-income and housing shortage instigated the transformation of tombs into dwellings. The enormous Citadel housed 3 large mosques, a palace and several museums within its high walls. However, the main attraction was undoubtedly the Muhammad Ali Mosque with its distinctive metallic domes. It is more popularly known as The Alabaster Mosque as the mosque is adorned inside and out with elaborately carved alabaster, even its huge fountain of ablutions found in the centre of the courtyard is made from alabaster. Overlooking the expansive courtyard is a never functional French tower clock. A worthless gift from King Louis Philippe after Muhammad Ali presented France with an obelisk, which still stands today at Place de la Concorde in Paris, from Luxor tem
ple in 1845. Entering the mosque, the tomb of Muhammad Ali can be found on the right. Within the centre of the mosque hung a huge chandelier surrounded by 365 little lanterns. Looking up, the domes were ornately decorated in intricate gold, rich greens and warm reds. Strangely this Islamic place of worship architecturally reeks of European influence. By the exit, the terrace offered a panoramic view of the whole of Cairo, on clear days, even the Pyramids of Giza are visible. Actually, the layout is suspiciously reminiscent of the Sacré Cœur and its equally impressive and unobstructed view of Paris. For those interested in Islamic art and architecture, other venues worth visiting are the beautifully decorated Sultan Hassan Mosque, the stupendous Rifa’i Mosque and the fortress like Mosque of Ibn Tulun.
The world renowned Egyptian Museum lies in the very heart of Cairo. Despite the cacophony from the maddening throng of tourists and their guides, it is a definite must see on any itinerary. The Egyptian Museum unfortunately displays only a cast replica of the Rosetta Stone; the original resides in the British Museum. The trilingual Rosetta Stone was the all important key to decoding and deciphering the ancient hieroglyphics. The Rosetta Stone contained passages celebrating the crowning of King Ptolemy V, carved in hieroglyphics, Demotic and Greek script. Shockingly, the museum has the look and feel of an old warehouse. It is depressing that the world’s greatest artefacts are housed in such inadequate facilities. However, the good news is that a new bigger and better equipped museum is under construction and due for completion in 2007. But for now within its dusty interior, priceless relics remain haphazardly arranged, wooden crates lie in disarray, signs and labels are either missing or brief and un-insightful. It is important to note that photography in the museum is strictly prohibited. All bags are searched at the entrance and cameras are temporarily seized and kept in numbered lockers. The Egyptian Museum is home, amongst others, to the magnificent treasures of the famed boy pharaoh Tutankhamon, whose tomb was the most intact ever discovered. The Tutankhamon Room is located on the second floor and is undoubtedly the main attraction of the museum. On display are his elaborately crafted coffin and funerary mask made from about 200 kg and 4 kg of solid gold respectively. Each is exquisitely inlaid with semi precious stones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, quartz and cornelian. His blood stained calcite canopic jars containing his embalmed lungs, liver, stomach and intestines, are enshrined in a gilded canopic chest whose 4 corners are carved with the images of Isis, Nephthys, Selkis and Neith with hands outstretched to encompass and protect them. Even Tutankhamon’s undergarments are unceremoniously displayed for the world to see. There are also his richly decorated and gilded mummification beds, ceremonial thrones, sarcophagus shrines, statues, jewellery, weapons, alabaster lamps, amulets and many more fantastic treasures. Artefacts belonging to pharaohs and nobles from the Old, Middle and New Kingdom are also found in other parts of the cavernous museum.
The Papyrus Institute is found en route to the Giza Plateau. It is allegedly supported and approved by the government as a genuine papyrus manufacturer. It is worth a visit as the staff explains and deftly demonstrates how papyrus is made. The papyrus was significant to the ancient Egyptians as the stem of this reed is triangular. The three sides of the thick green exterior of the stem are stripped to reveal the soft white pulp. The flesh is subsequently sliced into thin strips. The strips are then hammered with a mallet and flattened with a rolling pin to rid it of excess fluids. The battered strips are then soaked in water to remove cellulose. The final colour of the papyrus is determined by the duration that it is soaked. The longer it is soaked, the darker the colour of the papyrus becomes. Finally, the strips are closely weaved together and pressed till they are dried. On sale are papyrus with beautifully reproduced ancient Egyptian art depicting gods and goddesses, pharaohs and their queens, astrology, scenes from the Book of the Dead and many others. There are also papyrus with empty cartouches that can be filled with our names in hieroglyphics. A cartouche is a decorative rope that magically surrounds the names of royalty, gods, nobility and high priests.GIZA
Driving along a street by a tributary of the River Nile, I noticed the abject poverty and squalor that some Egyptians live in. On the dusty, dirty and overcrowded street, people go about their daily routine. Farmers sell their produce from donkey carts laden with bright orange carrots, cabbages and other fruits and vegetables. Garbage inundated the tributary, drifting carcasses of animals were decomposing in the sun and attracting swarms of flies. And yet, people were washing their clothes, fishing and children were swimming in the foul waters, oblivious to the stench and filth surrounding them. And in the background, amidst the hustle and bustle, noise and smells, loomed the extraordinary Pyramids of Giza.
In the middle of this underprivileged suburb, we arrived at a sandy square flanked by houses and little shops. There were several emaciated and smelly camels sitting listlessly in the square. This was the camel stable. The camel owner operated out of a dark and tiny shop that looked out to the square. A camel ride is a wonderful way of experiencing the desert terrain of the Giza Plateau and its monuments. But it was upsetting that the camels were in such a deplorable state. The camels were underfed and malnourished, had open sores, their harnesses were eating into the skin at the back of their heads and flies were constantly circling them. The saddle were positioned over the camel’s hump and draped with thick multicoloured rugs. After climbing onto the saddle and placing feet into stirrups, the camel stood up on the guide’s command and the journey began. Led by the guides, the camels plodded slowly through numerous garbage strewn alleyways. Being perched on the camel, high above ground level presented a marvellous view and rare peeks into the backyards and homes of people. The rocking and swaying motion of my camel, Selma, was utterly hypnotic. She was very sweet natured and docile with big round eyes peeping through impossibly long eyelashes and a pert and adorable muzzle.
Eventually, the Pyramids of Giza came into view. I was completely overwhelmed with awe. As we neared the desert plateau, my excitement grew with each of Selma’s soft but surefooted step. The guides would periodically stop the camels to explain certain sites, like the workers’ tombs and to take our pictures. The length, distance and destination of the camel rides are determined by the riders. The more adventurous can be led further out to the top of dunes and hills to view from a distance, the pyramids of Saqqara on the other side. I was spellbound by the sight of the Pyramids of Giza and The Sphinx. The Great Pyramid of Cheops, the only remaining wonder of the ancient world that it still standing, originally stood 146 metres high, but after a course of four and a half millennia its height has decreased by 9 metres. The Pyramid of Chephren, built by Cheops’ son, may be smaller in stature by a mere 3 metres, but it has to be undoubtedly Egypt’s finest pyramid. The original limestone casing that used to entirely envelop all the pyramids, still sheathes the apex of this magnificent pyramid. Next to it stands the considerably smaller Pyramid of Mycerinus, Chephren’s son. All 3 pyramids have smaller satellite pyramids of their respective queens. After the camel ride, we were driven to the foot of the larger pyramids. I felt humbled by the sheer magnitude of these goliaths. The Great Pyramid was constructed with an astounding 2.3 million limestone blocks, each weighing 2.5 tons. Getting up close, actually touching and looking up at the pyramids was sheer ecstasy. The skill and precision of the ancient Egyptian engineers is baffling and truly astonishing. Sadly, the external limestone casing was stripped to build the many mosques that now stand in Cairo. The pyramids have been subjected to centuries of vandalism and desecration, evident by the wide spread graffiti carved into the blocks. However, it is easy to imagine how 
the pyramids must stood as blinding beacons of light during ancient days, when the rays of the desert sun were reflected by their perfectly smooth limestone casing and the gold capstones that used to crown them. Situated next to the Valley Temple of Chephren is the enigmatic and ever smiling Sphinx, silently standing guard over the pyramids and watching the millennia pass by. Unfortunately, time has not been kind to the Sphinx. It has suffered greatly from erosion, been defaced by vandals and used for target practice by the Ottomans. Nonetheless, these ancient structures have defied all and withstood the ravages of time to emerge as triumphant testaments to the absolute power and authority of the ancient pharaohs. But when leaving the site, it was disturbing to observe how close civilisation has encroached upon these timeless monuments.ASWAN
After a short one hour flight on an aged and dingy Egyptian Airway’s aircraft, we arrived south, in Aswan. Aswan was a welcome change from the hectic and maddening chaos that was Cairo. Aswan is much smaller, less populated and definitely slower paced that the country’s capital. After leaving the ghost town of an airport, we made our way to the docks on the east bank. Berthed along these banks was a fleet of cruise ships poised to ply the route between Aswan and Luxor. We boarded our ship the MS Nile Symphony, checked in and inspected the facilities. Again, the surroundings and décor were very old world. The cabin was tiny but it redeemed itself with its huge windows that provided an unobstructed and excellent view of the river and its banks. In this small room, they managed to fit in a queen sized bed, a mini bar and a tiny en suite toilet and shower. On the deck of this 4 storey ship was a modestly sized swimming pool encircled by deck chairs. There was also a large canopy with lots of tables and chairs to enjoy our drinks on and watch the world go by. And in the middle, an air-conditioned bar cum lounging area which when night fell, transformed into a club complete with dance floor. It certainly was not the QE2, but it was adequate. Feluccas (native sailboats) drifted serenely by on the rippled emerald waters of the Nile as we sipped our welcome drink. Across the river was a high hill perforated with holes and surmounted by a domed shrine, this was the Necropolis of the Princes.
After breakfast we boarded a bus which ferried us to the Soviet designed Aswan High Dam. The towering lotus blossom inspired Soviet-Egyptian Friendship monument is located at the entrance. Following in the steps of their ancient forefathers, the modern Egyptians have continued the tradition of building structures of mind blowing proportions and grandeur. The dam is 3.6 km long, 1 km thick at the base and 100 metres high. The dam was built to address and improve Egypt’s agricultural and electrical needs. This is currently the world’s second largest dam, but once the Three Gorges Dam in China is completed, it will be relegated to third place. Behind this gargantuan dam is Lake Nasser, the world largest man-made reservoir which stretches for 550 km and at some points have depths of 200 metres. The Aswan high dam is heavily guarded, continuously under military surveillance and equipped with radar and anti-aircraft missiles. Because if the dam ever came under attack and was destroyed, the catastrophic deluge that would ensue, will wipe out 98% of the entire Egyptian population. Construction of this dam also posed a threat of submersion for many of Egypt’s historical temples. 18 sites and monuments were identified to be at risk, but thankfully all have been saved 
albeit at a hefty price. Egypt could only afford to salvage some of its treasures, as projects of this scale and nature were unquestionably cost intensive. This logistical nightmare required whole temples to be cut up, moved to a new location and reassembled. When their funds grew scarce, the Egyptian government appealed to the international community to help save these treasures. Several countries responded, but conditions applied! Today entire Egyptian temples take pride of place in several American and European museums.PHILAE
A short distance away was one of Egypt’s most beautiful temples, the breathtaking Temple of Philae, dedicated to the goddess Isis. The temple can only be reached by motorboat as it is situated on an island. Originally the temple stood on Philae Island but was partially submerged when the Old Dam was built in 1902. With the help of UNESCO, the Egyptian Antiquities Department successfully moved the entire complex to its new home on nearby Agilkia Island. The Temple of Philae is one of the three best preserved temples in Egypt, the other two being those in Edfu and Dendera. From a distance, the temple looked stunning and radiated a palpable air of romanticism. Disembarking the boat, we arrived at the outer courtyard lined on both sides by imposing bell shaped columns with papyrus flower and Hathorian (i.e. bearing images of the goddess Hathor) capitals carved in incredible detail. At the front of the outer courtyard were the massive first pylons, these are tall twin trapezoid structures that are positioned at both the entrance of the temple’s inner courtyard and at the entrance of the temple’s inner sanctum. The walls of the pylons are carved with giant images of the gods, goddess and pharaoh. At the gates of the first pylon, 2 granite lion sentinels flank the entrance. Cleopatra’s needle was originally erected at Philae Temple but now stands on the embankment of the River Thames in London; all tha
t remains on the temple grounds is the severed base of this famed obelisk. The walls and columns of the inner courtyard are completely filled with intricate and detailed hieroglyphic carvings, each dramatically telling a different story. The level of excellence in the workmanship of the artisans and scribes is extraordinary. Past the second pylons, we entered the temple and its sacred innermost sanctum where the statue of Isis would have been enshrined. Again, any exposed walls, roof or columns were painstakingly carved with hieroglyphs. Sadly, the Temple of Philae has not escaped unscathed from the passage of time. Early Christians converted this gorgeous temple into a church. Coptic crosses were carved into the walls and holes indiscriminately gouged into the walls for affixing candle holders and tie ups for donkeys and horses. Vandals dating back from ancient to medieval times left their marks by chiselling names and dates in a multitude of different scripts. It was also heartbreaking to see so many images of the gods and pharaohs mercilessly defaced. Nonetheless, it is comforting that the temple is still standing relatively intact for future generations to appreciate and enjoy.
Boarding the cruise ship, we set sail at a leisurely 17mph for Edfu. Lounging on the deck, enjoying the breeze and a cold beer while watching rural life on the banks of the Nile passing by was utterly enchanting! Along the fertile banks of the river were belts of verdant vegetation with flora like papyrus reeds, date palms, banana plants, sugar cane and other shrubs. Farmers tended to their plots of arable land and women washed clothes by the river’s edge. Squealing children frolicked in the waters while feluccas sailed passively by. Camels, horses, donkeys, cows and goats grazed lazily on the lush greenery, while their herdsmen languidly watched over them. And yet clearly visible and looming ominously behind the luxuriant foliage was the harsh and desolate desert landscape. It was such a stark contrast.KOM OMBO
A few hours later we arrived and docked at Kom Ombo which is situated between Aswan and Edfu. The minute we stepped on dry land, we were accosted by a flock of children and adolescents in unwashed clothes. They brandished postcards, scarves and little trinkets in their grimy hands. Baleful eyes looked out from dirty faces while they pleaded piteously in a variety of foreign tongues with tourists to buy their wares. It was disheartening to see children and youths in such wretched states. Winding up a long path, the temple came into sight. The Temple of Kom Ombo may be in ruins, but is nonetheless worth a visit as it still strikes an imposing figure. Entering the compound, on the right, was the small but intact Chapel of Hathor where 3 mummified crocodiles were on display. Only one of the great pylons still exists albeit in a state of disrepair and parts of the enormous roof supported by the gargantuan columns of the hypostyle (multi-pillared) hall of the temple still endures. The temple was unusually styled as it was dedicated to 2 Egyptian gods. Sobek, the crocodile headed god and Horus, the falcon headed god, shared this double temple. As a result, the temple is symmetrical throughout with identical but separate twin halls, colonnades, doorways, chambers and sanctuaries. The right side of the temple consecrated Sobek and the left Horus. Most of the roof, columns and walls were either missing or in pieces. But what remained was truly fantastic, as always, every conceivable space was etched meticulously with detailed hieroglyphics. Remarkably, many of the hieroglyphs still retained their original, albeit slightly faded colours. Vibrant reds, blues, greens and yellows can still be discerned. What a sight to behold this majestic temple must have been during its heyday, when its resplendent hues covered every inch and hieroglyph of its grounds. As ancient Egyptian life, religion and culture revolved around and depended on the annual flooding of the Nile, any information collected was of significant interest. Hence, 
to the left of the temple a huge well with a staircase spiralling down its walls was constructed. This was the Nilometer; it was used by ancient priests of the temple to measure the water levels of the Nile. Looking out at the stupendous view of the Nile from the temple’s terrace, we noticed strange cloud formations in the dusky sky. Above the temple, the clouds formed little tornado shapes, as if to remind us that this sacred site still possessed magic and power of the heavens. What a special way to end a day! Returning to the ship, we continued on our meandering journey towards Edfu in the silence of the night.EDFU
After a restful night’s sleep, we disembarked at Edfu and a bus transported us into the midst of this small and otherwise unimportant town. Gaudy carriages drawn by frightfully skinny and overworked horses ferried tourists to a most unusual destination. Located right in the heart of this busy little town, and totally incongruous with its surroundings of dilapidated houses and shops, was the stunning Temple of Horus. This fabulous temple’s near perfect state of preservation is unrivalled in the whole of Egypt. I was completely mesmerised by its splendour. Before excavation work began, the temple was buried under sand and rubble. And the natives of Edfu unknowingly built houses over the temple’s roof. This glorious complex stands now, more or less, as it did millennia ago. The miraculously intact compound, contained the sanctuary dedicated to Horus with its original 4m high tabernacle hewn from a single block of grey granite. The almost undamaged walls and grand pylons exemplified the grandeur and scale of ancient Egyptian temple architecture. Naturally, they were intricately inscribed with numerous depictions of the pharaohs and the gods, Horus and Hathor. On guard at the entrance to the temple was a pair of rather badly chipped granite statues of the falcon, a manifestation of Horus. At the entrance to the inner sanctum, was another pair of these regal granite falcons. The one on the left was in phenomenal condition, it escaped the ravages of time relatively unscathed. Artfully sculpted, it proudly wore its granite double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. Its twin on the right however, did not fare as well, only its top half remained. Again, every exposed surface of the walls, columns and ceiling in the temple and its courtyard was decorated with elaborate hieroglyphics. However, many faces of the figures portrayed were chiselled away by early monotheistic Christians, namely the Copts. Some parts of ceilings were badly charred, indicative of the period when the Copts disrespectfully used this temple as a place to store and burn their garbage. But thankfully the majority of the temple and its reliefs have survived and remained unmolested, so that the legacy and unsurpassed artistry of the ancient Egyptian craftsmen can live on. Overcome with awe and respect, we left the temple of Edfu and headed back to our ship.ESNA
From Edfu we set sail and resumed our journey towards Esna. The rustic landscape continued to captivate me. Little settlements of mud bricks houses started to make their appearance on the banks. Mosques and their tell tale minarets, inexplicably sprouted in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere. But abruptly, the spoils of industry reared its ugly head and marred the pristine scenery. Along the banks, enormous factories expelled thick billowy plumes of smoke from their soaring chimneystacks. Large cylindrical pipes discharged industrial waste into the river. It was a tragic sight. A few hours later we neared Esna, another little town which concealed its own treasure, the Temple of Khnum, honouring the ram headed creator god. Eventually, the long procession of cruise ships came to berth at Esna, where a long bridge spanned across both banks. Around 20 ships docked along the banks of this sleepy town, patiently awaiting their turn to traverse the narrow swing bridge on the east bank. Having passed that, we entered a holding area and waited with the rest of the fleet to enter and pass through Esna Lock. The lock could only move 2 ships at a time, and there were more ships on the other side trying to get to our end. It was a long and arduous process which took the better part of a day to complete. Near dusk, amidst the haunting prayer calls that reverberated from the numerous minarets in Esna, we finally entered the lock. The heavy front and back gates groaned shut, and the sluice gates were opened, allowing the trapped water in the lock to steadily escape. The water level receded and the walls of the lock rose high above us. Eventually we reached the same water level as the other side and the gates slowly swung open. Our ship expertly navigated out of the confines of the lock, and we sailed deep into the night towards Luxor.LUXOR CITY
Luxor, formerly known as Thebes, was the ancient capital of Upper and Lower Egypt during the reign of the pharaohs of the New Kingdom. As such it has a high concentration of important sites such as the famed Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Temple of Hatshepsut, The Ramesseum, Colossi of Memnon, Temple of Ramses III and the less reknowned Valley of the Artisans, Tomb of the Nobles, Temple of Seti I and many others. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that Luxor is such a popular a tourist hotspot.
COLOSSI OF MEMNON
All that remains of what used to be the largest mortuary temple on the west bank are a pair of colossal statues of the pharaoh Amon- Ofis III (also known as Amenhotep III). The temple unfortunately has completely disappeared, leaving behind only a few scattered blocks. The 20 m statues have been very badly damaged by earthquakes and vandals. The statues of the seated pharaoh have been pieced back together, but sadly, the finish is very uneven. Many details like the face, arms and feet are no longer distinguishable but some hieroglyphs carved on the throne have been salvaged and restored. Despite the appreciably damaged and disfigured appearance of the colossi, they still manage to enthral by their sheer size.VALLEY OF THE KINGS
Snaking our way into the Valley of the Kings, we passed the multi-domed sandstone bungalow that was Howard Carter’s home. Howard Carter was the celebrated archaeologist responsible for discovering the small tomb of Tutankhamon and its unparalleled treasures in 1922. This valley was chosen by the pharaohs of the New Kingdom for practical and symbolic reasons. The practical aspects were that the site was relatively secluded and remote making it an ideal location for a royal necropolis. Symbolically, there was a natural pyramidal formation at the valley’s highest peak, which the ancient Egyptians venerated as Meretseger but is known today as El-Qurn. At the entrance of the valley, we took a tram into its centre. Featureless cliffs and solid rock walls bordered this barren and extensive valley. To date, more than 64 known tombs honeycomb this sacred site. To preserve the tombs, usually 8 are opened to the public at any one time. Every few months the open tombs are rotated to ensure they get a chance to recuperate from the massive human traffic they attract. The gravel paths leading to the myriad tombs are clearly marked. At the entrance of each tomb are signs detailing their layouts and brief descriptions of the interior. Each ticket allowed entry to 3 tombs except the tomb of Tutankhamon which required a separate ticket. We entered the royal tombs of Ramses III, Ramses IV and Ramses VII. These subterranean Ramessid tombs shared a common design. They were constructed with a straight axis, with long gentle sloping corridors that ultimately led to the burial chamber where their massive stone sarcophagi laid. Along the corridors were antechambers, storerooms and canopic niches. Among the three, the tomb of Ramses III was the largest and grandest with its cavernous pillared halls, while the tomb of Ramses VII was the smallest but by no means least decorated. The walls and ceilings of the tombs were entirely filled with vividly coloured and very well preserved hieroglyphics. The dazzling ceilings were painted with images of celestial beings and heavenly bodies. The intricately carved and painted walls and rooms depicted passages from the Litany of Re, Book of the Dead, Book of the Earth, Book of the Heavens, Book of Gates, the Amduat and countless spells to protect the tombs and lead the pharaohs safely into the Afterlife. Had the tombs not been plundered in antiquity, they would have been customarily filled to the brim with the pharaohs’ wondrous treasures, funerary equipment and other possessions that they would have needed for the afterlife. To put 
things in perspective, it is essential to mention that Tutankhamon was actually a minor pharaoh whose reign was short and rather insignificant. His treasures would have paled miserably in comparison to those contained in the leviathan tombs of the true greats like Ramses II and Seti I. Sadly, most of the tombs in the valley have not evaded the scourge of vandals, graffiti was clearly visible in the tombs we visited. And shockingly, these tombs were desecrated by the early Copts who used them as homes, churches and stables.DEIR EL-BAHARI
Leaving the Valley of the Kings, we headed for the architectural masterpiece that is the Temple of Hatshepsut. Situated next to it are the ruins of the mortuary temple of Mentuhotep I, built 500 years earlier. Queen Hatshepsut was a maverick. She commissioned the construction of this revolutionary mortuary temple, set against a backdrop of sheer limestone cliffs that fan out dramatically on both sides of the temple. She usurped her young step-son’s (Tuthmosis III) claim to the throne and became the only woman, albeit a cross dresser, in the history of ancient Egypt to ever assume the role of pharaoh, a title that was exclusively reserved for men. She organised an expedition to the mysterious country of Punt, assumed to be modern day Somalia, where her people returned with exotic objects like ebony, ivory, panther skins and other novel items. Her birth, childhood and exploits were chronicled on the extensively frescoed walls of the temple. Surprisingly, many scenes still maintained their original colours. A long causeway leads to the temple at the base of the cliff. In ancient times, this causeway was lined on both sides with exotic plants and trees, an amazing feat in itself considering the unrelenting heat that this desert climate is subjected to. Even today, a pair of 3400 year old ebony tree stumps still endures at the site. The temple is made up of 3 levels of columned terraces built with 2 wide ramps to reach the sanctuary located at the top. The inner sanctum was cut into the solid rock face of the cliff. It was converted into a monastery by the Copts and was badly damaged and defaced. The courtyards of the two terraces were incredibly wide and spacious. The third terrace is supported by a row of elegant and beautifully carved Osirian (bearing the image of Osiris) pillars, however, only a handful of these statues remained intact. The sumptuously decorated shrines dedicated to Hathor and Anubis are found at the back walls of the central courtyard. After Hatshepsut’s mysterious death, her successor Tuthmosis III, whose right to power and authority eluded him for 20 years, exacted his revenge by virtually removing all traces of her names and replacing it with his own.KARNAK
The Temple of Karnak astounded with its sheer dimensions. The area covered by its monuments was divided into three by rough brick walls. The central area, the largest and best preserved, covered 30 hectares and was dedicated to the sun god, Amon. Covering 2½ hectares on the left was the rectangular domain of Montu, the god of war. On the other side and under the dominion of Amon’s wife Mut, spanned her 9 hectare sanctuary which was connected to her husband’s by a passage lined on both sides with ram headed sphinxes. Over the centuries pharaohs of the New Kingdom, fuelled by narcissism and in attempts to outdo the last, left their mark and demonstrated their omnipotence by adding new extensions to the complex. As a result, Karnak Temple holds the title of world’s largest temple supported by columns. The temple grew with the contributions of the greats like Seti II, Ramses II, Ramses III, Tuthmosis I, Tuthmosis III, Hatshepsut and several others. We entered the great Temple of Amon through the Avenue of the Rams, another boulevard lined by ram headed sphinxes, and passed through the grand but uncompleted first pylons. On the left was the shrine built by Seti II honouring the Theban triad of Amon-Ra, Mut and Khonsu. In the Great Court, the 15 metre high colossus of Pinedjem is dwarfed by a lone surviving 21 metre high open papyrus column in the Pavilion of Taharqa. To the right was a temple built by Ramses III and in excellent condition. Its entrance was flanked by a pair of statues of the pharaoh, one in a better state than the other. Its large open court is lined by 20 Osirian pillars measuring 7 metres in height and within the temple were the 3 inner chambers. Unfailingly, every surface was carved with hieroglyphics. Past the second pylons of the temple, we entered a veritable forest of monoliths. This was the unequalled Great Hypostyle Hall, yet another record holder, it is the largest of its kind in the world. This was the epitome of pharaonic architecture. The hall consisted of 134 decorated columns each a lofty 23 metres high. The circumference of the open papyrus flower capitals was a staggering 15 metres. The exacting standards and precision of the ancient architects and engineers who created this enormous hall, gave form to a play of light and shadow that elicited powerful emotions which was nothing short of theatrical. Beyond this hall past the third pylons were the obelisks of Tuthmosis I, each 23 metres high and weighing 143 tons, unfortunately only a solitary obelisk remains. Beyond yet another pylon stood Hatshepsut’s obelisk, at 30 metres tall and weighing 
200 tons, it surpassed her father’s (Tuthmosis I) and is Egypt’s tallest obelisk. Deeper into the complex and past even more pylons and the Central Court, was the fairly well preserved dark red hypostyle Festival Hall of Tuthmosis III. The Sacred Lake to the right, measured 120 metres by 77 metres, the sacred water was used by the priests for purification before the commencement of their daily sanctified rituals. Other noteworthy monuments and sites are the gigantic granite scarab beetle, the remaining upper half of the obelisk of Amon-Ofis III, the Temple of Khonsu, the Temple of Opet, the Temple of Ptah, the Temple of Amon-Ofis II and the Chapel of Tuthmosis III. Exploring this vast and intriguing site was exhausting and time consuming, but the rewards were well worth the effort!LUXOR TEMPLE
Luxor Temple was dedicated to Amon-Ra, king of the gods. It was considerably smaller compared to its big brother in Karnak. Luxor Temple was originally connected to Karnak Temple by a long passageway flanked by sphinxes. Work is still in progress to unearth this road and restore it to its former glory. However, the end portion of this avenue can be seen at the entrance of Luxor Temple. In front of the enormous first pylons, three of the original six Colossi of Ramses II still exists. The two seated statues guard the entrance to the temple; both are in fairly good condition. A towering red granite obelisk flanked the doorways; its twin was carted off by the French and now graces the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Past the triumphal entrance, we entered the largest chamber of the temple, the multi columned Courtyard of Ramses II. Numerous decapitated statues of Osiris stood between the double rows of bell shaped columns with closed papyrus capitals. On the right was the tiny Chapel of the Theban triad and on the left, looking completely out of place, was the Mosque of Abu al-Haggag. The mosque was built into the courtyard by the Fatimids in 1077 and is still used today. Through the Colonnade of Amon-Ofis III, past its mammoth columns with open papyrus capitals, we entered his courtyard. The Courtyard of Amon-Ofis III was surrounded by uniquely designed columns. Each column was carved to look like a cluster of tightly packed reeds topped with closed papyrus capitals. And collectively, the columns evoked imaginings of a stony marsh. Beyond the courtyard was the 22 columned hypostyle hall that led into the intimate and sacred inner sanctum with its maze of antechambers and side chapels. Inscribed throughout the temple walls were hieroglyphics, some in better condition than others, depicting the birth, coronation, military exploits of the pharaoh as well as scenes from the religious Festival of Opet.After Luxor, we flew back to the pandemonium of Cairo. And with that, my amazing visit to Egypt came to an end. But this magical experience has been indelibly etched into my memory. Regrettably, I could not visit all the sights of Egypt, it would have taken forever to do so! But what I have seen, will sustain me for a lifetime!
Saturday, November 06, 2004
Kuwait City, Kuwait - September 2004
Kuwait is a perplexing country; it strives to be a developed nation but yet it is hindered by its religious and constitutional trappings. It is a complex enigma, with its odd mix of the insular and secular, its archaic male chauvinism, indolent attitudes and its discriminatory class system which permeates its social and working environment. The Iraqi invasion of 1990 that wreaked extensive devastation to the country as well as spawning one of the world’s worst environmental catastrophes is but a distant memory. Lessons of the strength of the human spirit, humility and solidarity have sadly been forgotten. Derelict buildings riddled with bullet holes stand forlornly as reluctant memorials to the war. A trip to Kuwait’s beaches or desert is foolhardy, as not all landmines and other unexploded ordnance have been cleared. This is yet another vestige of the Iraqi invasion.
Tourism in Kuwait is not even in its early foetal stages, in fact it is still trying desperately for conception. Frankly, it is non-existent and practically unheard of; to the locals it is a laughable concept. There is only a handful of less than exciting places to visit, such as the tri-globular Kuwait Tower, which is the landmark of Kuwait and is in fact a working water tower, the Liberation Tower, built as a monument after the Iraqi invasion, the unremarkable Grand Mosque, a museum, a scientific centre and a few old amusement parks. There are no pubs or discos, the only forms of entertainment are shopping, dining and going to the cinema which can be a frustrating activity as most movies are heavily censored and the running time usually falls around an hour after the cuts. To gain admission into Kuwait, an ‘invitation to visit’ visa has to be obtained beforehand. A Kuwaiti sponsor is mandatory for the application of this visa. The sponsor will effectively be responsible for you. He has to guarantee both your good behaviour and subsequent departure from Kuwait. My boyfriend had to acquire my visa through an agent in Kuwait, and then hand it to me in Dubai before entering Kuwait. Technically, photography is forbidden, unless a photography license has been obtained from the Minister of Information. But this rule is rarely enforced. When it comes to taking pictures, a little common sense goes a long way to stay out of trouble. Photographing any structure that even hints of the military, government or oil production should be avoided at all costs. Never take photos of their women! It is safer to ask before taking any pictures of people, but truly, its best just not to do it! Kuwaitis tend to be very sensitive about and suspicious of photo taking. Even hotels discourage photography. In fact at most hotels, all cars are stopped and checked for bombs before entry, bags are x-rayed and guests have to go through a metal detecting gate. I assume this is a residual consequence of the Iraqi invasion.
Kuwaitis make up approximately 25% of the entire population, the remainder are imported workers. Filipinos, Indians and Egyptians make up the largest proportion of their foreign labour. As the very virtue of being Kuwaiti bestows great rewards and privileges, the government actively seeks to keep their bloodline pure by fervently encouraging Kuwaiti men to marry Kuwaiti women, as the alarming trend of Kuwaiti men marrying Jordanian and Lebanese women is gaining popularity. The government hands out a 6 figure sum to Kuwaiti women who marry Kuwaiti men. Also, to stimulate the declining birth rate, the government offers a cash grant of around SGD$100,000 per child per annum. The Kuwaiti constitution guarantees, amongst other things, jobs for their citizens. 93% of Kuwaitis are employed by the government which provides them ridiculously high paying jobs with unbelievable benefits, like interest free loans, and other astounding perks. Armed with these assurances, they proceed to live in luxury, replete with fancy cars and lavish houses. In the private sector, companies must be partially or entirely owned by a Kuwaiti. So foreigners interested in setting up a business in Kuwait, must seek a Kuwaiti partner. The partner will be, more often than not, a sleeping partner who comes up with little capital but still rakes in a substantial chunk of the returns. This could explain the relatively low figures in foreign investments for their country.
Being an Islamic country, alcohol, drugs and pork are strictly forbidden and banned. Conservative attire is strongly advised, but unlike Saudi Arabia, it is not demanded of non-Muslim women to wear the abayya, the long black all encompassing tent which leaves only the eyes exposed, except when visiting a mosque. Interestingly enough, there are no religious connotations with donning the abayya, or any of the veils and headdress, it is purely a personal choice, with the exception of the more fanatical and extremist Middle Eastern countries where this practice is strictly enforced. Foreign magazines and newspapers will have any provocative pictures of women who show a little too much cleavage or leg dutifully blacked out with a maker pen. Kuwaiti television and newspapers are, by international standards, extremely tame. Cooking programs have women presenting them completely cloaked in their black abayya! The internet is heavily monitored, most pornographic and politically inflammatory sites are blocked. Billboards and posters are discreet and chaste usually featuring just the products and a slogan. But ironically, with the magic of satellite subscription, one is bombarded by an endless selection of international programs from all over the world. There are even hardcore triple X pornographic channels available for your viewing pleasure in this deeply religious Islamic state. Men and women are strictly segregated in Kuwait, unless bonded by family ties or marriage. As such, it is common knowledge that young unmarried males will experiment sexually with each other as they have difficulty gaining access to females. But this will be vehemently denied as the practice of homosexuality is a grave sin in Islam. Furthermore, they do not consider these trysts as acts of homosexuality, but more as part of growing up and satisfying basic instinctual sexual needs.
Kuwait is another wealthy Gulf country that is a major producer of oil, and their oil reserves are estimated to last another century. Their immense wealth probably explains why the Kuwaitis are predisposed to bigotry, racism, narrow mindedness and indolence. But it still does not explain why the country’s infrastructure is so appallingly bad. The Kuwaitis possess great egos and a superiority complex to match. Many jobs are beneath them, which accounts for the legions of foreign workers from poorer countries who will man the eateries, clean their streets, clear their trash, pave their roads, construct their buildings, staff their shops and so on and so forth. All foreign workers, from menial labourers to consultants, Asians to Caucasians, are referred to in official Arabic documents as servants. Their currency, the Kuwaiti Dinar (KD) is frightfully strong. The exchange rate is a staggering 1 KD = SGD$6 = £2, thus making Kuwait extortionately expensive! Besides oil, Kuwait has no other natural resources. Everything has to be imported, thus contributing to the high cost of living. Arabic is the official language, but English is widely spoken. Taxis have meters installed, but these are rarely used, so agreeing on a price before getting onto a cab is highly recommended. Life in Kuwait is concentrated mainly in Kuwait City; the rest of Kuwait is made up of large desert wasteland where their oil fields lie under. Therefore Kuwait has neither trains nor a domestic airport, furthermore almost everybody drives!
Kuwait International Airport is old, tiny and poorly lit; a far cry from the dazzling state of the art mega structure that is Dubai International Airport. Honestly I was taken aback, with Kuwait being a wealthy oil rich state I was expecting an airport of comparable, if not equal, grandeur. After disembarkation, I was greeted by a surly immigration officer who literally snatched my papers from me and proceeded to process my documents. A few grunts and glares later, I breezed through immigration with one more hurdle to cross - customs. Everybody gets their luggage and bags x-rayed for alcohol, any bottles of alcohol found will be confiscated. Customs was not as nerve wracking as I had anticipated. In fact, it was more perfunctory than anything else. The customs officers were more absorbed with their coffee, conversations and cigarettes, paying little heed to the no smoking signs plastered all over the airport! Every now and again, when they could bear to tear themselves away from their scintillating discussions, they would throw a cursory glance in the direction of the monitors every now and again, and then return to their loud guttural banter. As I came through, I noticed many American soldiers milling about in the arrival hall. I can only assume that they must have just got back from a mission from Iraq. American presence in Kuwait is visibly prominent. Appleby’s, Hardee’s, Subway, Dairy Queen, Baskin Robins, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Burger King, the ubiquitous McDonalds and many more American chains line the streets and fill the malls.
The climate in Kuwait is very arid and extremely hot. Summer temperatures vacillate between an uncomfortable 38 C to a searing 50 C. The indoor and outdoor temperature differential can be as much as 20 C to 25 C as most homes, office buildings and shopping malls constantly maintain their air conditioners at its blustering maximum to stay cool in this desert climate. During summer, it is strongly advised to avoid staying outdoors for long periods of time, as the blistering heat poses the very real risk of heat exhaustion or heat stroke. Drinking copious amounts of water is essential. While Dubai continuously endeavours to transform their desert environment into a lush garden city, Kuwait’s half hearted attempts covers the outskirts of the airport with a few pockets of greenery scattered around the city. Elsewhere, inexplicable open sandy expanses and buildings of varying shades of sandstone dot the urban landscape. On windy days, fine sand gets whipped up and visibility is obscured, it settles everywhere, covering any inanimate object with a layer of dust.
Civil planning is poor as buildings are randomly erected with little discernable order or system. Road are convoluted and conditions are horrendously bad. Major roads are far from smooth, side roads lack street signs, are atrociously paved and full of potholes. Road humps are curiously unpainted making them almost invisible which results in erratic shuddering halts. Driving in Kuwait is extremely dangerous; statistically 2 people are killed everyday in road accidents. This is by no means an exaggeration, as the Kuwaitis are infamous for being negligent, inconsiderate and extremely reckless drivers. Accidents are a daily occurrence, as established by the numerous burnt out, smashed up and overturned cars abandoned by the side of the roads. Car parks are a popular dumping ground for these damaged vehicles too. Kuwaitis seem to find it simpler to just buy a new car rather than go through the hassle of getting it repaired. Kuwaitis believe that they are invulnerable and untouchable as they were brought up to believe that they are better than everyone else. The fact that this is a nation of In Shaa’Allah (If God wills) does not help either. They cross the streets without looking and if you come to a screeching halt with horns blaring and nearly running them over, they will glare at you incredulously and make a shooing gesture with their hands like you were some bothersome gnat spoiling their lovely walk. Simultaneously driving and chatting ceaselessly on their mobile phone is another leisurely Kuwaiti pastime, which results in the graceful art of lane drifting. Roundabouts are wonderfully chaotic as the Kuwaitis are incapable of grasping its concept and utilisation; it’s generally a free for all, where the annoying practice of waiting, signalling and giving way is completely dispensed with, it is more practical to just charge in. The pièce de résistance has to be the classic cutting through 3 lanes to get to an exit at the last minute with no regard to oncoming traffic. Also, road weaving and speeding are an absolute must for young Kuwaiti men as it is a display and expression of their masculinity and machismo. Besides cars like Ferraris, Porches, BMWs and Mercedes Benzes, great big motorcycle behemoths are a favourite racing mode for the male youths. Naturally, helmets would be an embarrassing fashion faux pas. What’s the point of riding a motorcycle if your hair is not whipping sexily in the wind and your handsome visage is obscured by a silly visor. A major expressway called the Arabian Gulf Street comes alive every night with horrific traffic congestion. It is a popular venue for hundreds of vehicles belonging to single men and women. They head to this coastal highway, called a corniche, which becomes their playground for their quaint courting rituals. They continuously ply up and down this long road hoping to make contact with a member of the opposite sex. It is not uncommon to find bumper stickers with phone numbers and e-mail addresses on them. The bolder boys will sometimes throw scrunched up pieces of paper which undoubtedly contains their contact details into the cars of females. This practise came about to circumvent the strict custom of gender segregation where it is taboo for a single female to be seen in open public with a man. All these and more make up the delightful and common driving traits and etiquette of the Kuwaitis.
Kuwait is relatively safe as crime rates are low. Most offences are usually drug, alcohol or traffic related crimes. However, single women travelling in Kuwait need to be extra cautious. Unaccompanied women very often get followed by frisky males, who try their hardest to strike up a conversation, in the vain hope of a chance sexual encounter. While standing by the kerb, it is not uncommon to witness cars stopping to offer these lone women a lift. Declining these offers would be wisest! It is best to avoid eye contact and feign deafness. To dampen their over-enthusiasm, staring wordlessly and blankly into the distance helps tremendously. Usually these forms of treatment are sufficient to deter these pests. In the case of the more persistent individuals, a loud public telling off should do the trick as Arab men dislike drawing attention to themselves and are averse to being publicly humiliated. Again due to gender segregation, single Kuwaiti women are sexually untouchable. Therefore foreign women, Asians in particular, end up being the most vulnerable and easiest targets of sexual crimes. Reports on abductions and gang rapes of Asian women make daily appearances on their newspapers. The Kuwaitis cannot fathom the idea that an Asian woman who is in Kuwait is not necessarily a maid. The Kuwaitis generally regard Asians as inconsequential domestic help or menial labourers. They feed on the fact that most of the workers here desperately need their jobs and fear losing their livelihood and are thus not so quick to lodge a report. As such, it is exceedingly plausible that the statistics of sex crimes are vastly higher than reported.
A Kuwaiti will, more often than not, receive preferential treatment, the term impartiality is unfamiliar. In most car accidents involving a Kuwaiti and a foreigner, a Kuwaiti’s words are the gospel truth. For example, if a Kuwaiti violently slams into the back of a Caucasian’s vehicle, whatever the circumstances the Caucasian will always be in the wrong. However, here’s the class system at work, if a Caucasian slams into the back of an Indian’s car, the Indian will invariably be in the wrong. At most levels, there is a very distinct pecking order. At work, Kuwaiti men, never women, customarily claim top management; other Arab nationalities and Caucasians will take up supervisory posts and Asians form the lowest working class. Kuwaitis and other Arabs abhor the very idea of being told what to do, they much prefer giving orders and making others do the work. Ensconced in their little world, they have actually come to believe that they are a superior race and all other races are below them. Americans indulge them this fantasy as the financial motivation and benefits for the US is enormous. Millions if not billions of dollars stand to be made in neighbouring Iraq which is in dire need of reconstruction and pro American Kuwait conveniently serves as a relatively safe base.
Kuwait is very much a society that revolves around shopping malls, restaurants and coffee chains. The streets and malls usually come alive at night as Kuwaitis are nocturnal by choice. In the day, Kuwait has the air of a deserted town. Personally, I prefer to venture out in the day as most places are not crowded. However, shopping as an Asian in Kuwait has been quite an eye-opener. Kuwaiti clients are treated with reverence, while Caucasian customers are treated politely. Asians tend to be treated with disdain. When I went to purchase a jar of Clinique moisturiser, I was given the third degree by the presumably Jordanian shop manageress. I was viewed with suspicion and subsequently interrogated on why I wanted to make this purchase, my ability to use this product, the current product I was using, and if I’ve ever used this product. Finally, she suggested that I try shopping at a pharmacy instead. Naturally, I paid her no heed and proceeded to buy my much needed moisturiser. Far from being offended, I was bemused by the whole comical episode. At eateries, the service rendered to Asians is rather poor too. While taking my order, the Pilipino staff tends to address me in Tagalog. And when it becomes apparent that I had no idea what they were saying, and I tell them that I’m Singaporean, they react with disbelief and seem disappointed. Once after dining at the Hilton, I went to pay my bill. The cashier asked me if I worked at the Hilton and proceeded to inform me that hotel staff receives considerable discounts. I politely replied that I was actually a guest at the Hilton. He seemed sceptical and as if to make certain that I did not lose out on this wonderful discount, he asked me again if I was sure that I was not hotel staff. I can only speculate that I probably would have received better treatment had I been Pilipino!
Taking a stroll in their malls can be a little disconcerting. As an Asian, I drew many stares and glares. The youths were either curious and offered a smile or they nudge each other, sneer, point and laugh out loud. Older Kuwaiti men are normally characterized by their national dress, the dishdasha. It is a long crisp white ankle length robe worn with a headdress consisting of a triangular piece of white or red and white chequered cloth worn over a skull cap and fastened with 2 rings of black cords. The dishdasha is worn with immense pride as it is an emblem of their status as Kuwaitis. Foreigners should not be tempted to put on the dishdasha, as Kuwaitis will be terribly offended and feel that you are making fun of them. With youths, preference for the dishdasha is divided. It is equally common to see them in modern western dress as well as their national dress. It is quite effortless to distinguish the Kuwaitis from their other Arab counterparts. Apart from the tell tale dishdasha, Kuwaitis tend to walk around like they own the world, with shoulders wide apart, chest out and arms swinging at their sides, making for a distinctively cocky gait. And they expect others to make way for them and never the other way around. The air of arrogance exuded by both the men and women is unmistakable. The looks of undisguised hatred and undiluted loathing I received, especially from the older Kuwaitis, were admittedly, unnerving. They seemed to be incredulous and outraged that a mere Asian like myself, had the audacity to go shopping instead of working behind a counter at McDonalds. Whenever I had coffee at Starbucks or one of the other numerous coffee places, it was quite typical for the women to pass me and feel affronted, then glare at me angrily and whip out their mobiles and call their friends or family to noisily express their displeasure. Besides shopping and eating, the women really have nothing much else to do, which explains why they are constantly on their mobiles, relating their mundane day to day experiences and encounters. Instead of shirking back and being meek, I thoroughly enjoyed returning the favour by throwing back imperious and contemptuous looks which confused, infuriated and exasperated them even more! It was hilarious!
When visiting Kuwait, it is imperative for sanity’s sake to get used to the Arab customs and attitudes. Rapid acceptance of the fact that narrow and closed mindedness pervades all ranks, will evaporate most frustrations. To put things in perspective, we must bear in mind that even though Kuwait is an Islamic country with strict rules and traditions, hypocrisy and double standards are rampant. Despite the restrictive Sharia’a (Islamic) law that governs the country, everything that liberal people of more cosmopolitan and secular cities partake in, be it sex, drugs or alcohol is also happening in Kuwait albeit covertly. Even though many would agree that Kuwait is a less than desirable country worth visiting, I am glad to have had the opportunity to come here and personally experience how these people live, interact and behave. Undoubtedly, it seems very different and unreal but it was truly an intriguing, humourous and interesting study of human dynamics. Wouldn’t the world be extremely dull if its citizens were all homogenous? Dubai, UAE - September 2004
The moment I arrived at Dubai International Airport, it struck me how much it has evolved since my last transit there in 1995. Back then, it was an old and grimy airport in dire need for renovations and better coordination. Today it is a new, bright and ultra modern airport with the main terminal building shaped like the long body of a colossal aircraft. Exiting the airport, I noticed major construction work going on around the building. I’m assuming that another terminal is soon to be on its way.Life in the Gulf r
evolves around the Islamic faith and calendar. And Dubai is no exception. Their weekends, unlike those who subscribe to the Gregorian calendar, fall on Thursdays and Fridays. Prayers constitute an integral role in Islam. Hence the prolific existence of their countless mosques, where calls to prayer resound without fail from their minarets 5 times daily. Being an Islamic state has not necessarily compromised Dubai’s levels of tolerance and liberalism. Comparatively, Dubai is only second to Bahrain and thankfully not as extreme as Saudi Arabia. Nonetheless, it is still a relatively conservative country, and to avoid offending local sensibilities, a little common sense goes a long way. For women, steer clear of mini skirts, bikini tops or hot pants and men should avoid overly tight clothes or walking around bare-chested. Alcohol is freely available to non-Muslims in most hotels, restaurants and night spots. It can also be purchased by non-Muslims in shops provided a liquor license is first obtained. To ensure that the license is not abused, a monthly quota is enforced. Arabic is the official language but English is widely spoken and most signs are bilingual. Dubai is very safe as crime rates are considered very low. It is also notoriously expensive, as almost everything is imported due to the absence of other natural resources besides oil. However, their gold prices are among the lowest in the world as it is tax free! Armies of workers are imported from the Philippines, India, Sri Lanka, Egypt and Pakistan to staff the hotels, fast food chains, restaurants, shops and malls. Taxis are metered and spotlessly clean with English speaking drivers. There is a diversity of cuisines available, ranging from Middle Eastern to Asian to Western. Fast food franchises and coffee chains are abundant too.
The UAE is an oil rich country which has no qualms about demonstrating this fact. Dubai could well be a showcase for the country’s incredible affluence. However, Dubai’s wealth is not built solely upon the country’s oil reserves. Resisting complacency, forward thinking and a more liberal approach has spawned money spinners like a free trade port, tourism, foreign investments and property developments. It is plainly obvious that their wealth has not been frivolously squandered with absolutely nothing to show for. On the contrary, it is evident that their funds have been astutely invested. Dubai’s infrastructural tapestry is woven with a network of comfortingly smooth, wide and well lit roads, modern flyovers, highways and bridges against a backdrop of spectacular hotels and imposing skyscrapers. Several of which are evocative of American skyscrapers with their art deco influence. While others, like the Emirates Towers, are eye catching glass and steel marvels. Dubai has unmistakably made the most of today’s international architectural talents who make its skyline their canvas. The cosmopolitan masterpiece that is Dubai is still far from completion. Other notable projects currently being undertaken are the city’s under and over ground monorail system; the world’s next tallest tower – Burj Dubai and the luxurious offshore residential developments – The World and The Palm, where luminaries like royalty, tycoons, moguls and stars such as David Beckham have already booked their units.
Dubai’s long summers are unbearably hot and uncomfortably humid, temperatures hover around a sweltering 32 C to 42 C with virtually no rainfall. Even under such severe conditions, the native date palm and desert brush manage to thrive. A massive effort to introduce more greenery into this desert climate has resulted in an extensive irrigation system which employs miles of concentrically laid black water hoses. The embedded hoses supply life giving water to non-indigenous plants that would otherwise be unable to survive in this harsh and parched environment. And this effort has paid off with oases of lush vegetation providing a soft contrast to the otherwise stark steel and concrete jungle. This feat is nothing short of a miracle, considering that Dubai has very limited natural fresh water reserves, which is a frightening reality. But to overcome this situation, Dubai and all the other desert states produce water by desalinating vast quantities of sea water.
At present, the jewel in Dubai’s crown is indisputably the breathtaking Burj Al Arab; the world’s only seven star hotel. Needless to say, its rates are astronomical. This architectural wonder sits on a man-made island accessible by its very own causeway. Its design was inspired by their traditional fishing boats called dhows. The front of the hotel boasts a convex façade simulating the billowing sails of the dhow. The bar cum viewing deck seems precariously perched at the top of the hotel and looks out to the Arabian Gulf. It is housed in an elongated gravity defying capsule, above it, a circular helipad and beyond that, the hotel’s spire. Together, the sum of these parts, create the iconic silhouette that has now become synonymous with Dubai. Located just a stone’s throw away from the Burj Al Arab, is another prominent hotel worth mentioning, The Jumeirah Beach Hotel. It too draws inspiration from seafaring traditions, with its bold design featuring sensuous undulating curves mirroring a breaking wave. The Jumeirah has its own private beach, and thanks to its close proximity to the Burj Al Arab, offers guests an unobstructed and commanding view of it. This is indeed the next best thing as the Burj Al Arab’s cardiac arrest inducing rates are rather prohibitive and beyond the reach of the general populus. The unique architecture of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel definitely warrants a visit and makes it a fantastic subject for shutterbugs. For those who crave a more exotic setting, The Medinat Jumeirah Hotel with its old world charm would be ideal. It is a theme hotel along the vein of The Venetian in Las Vegas. The Medinat Jumeirah pays tribute to Dubai’s heritage and is styled after an Arabian citadel. This huge hotel complex comes complete with ornately decorated bridges spanning a large, albeit artificial, body of water on which dhows serenely drift upon. The Medinat’s sandstone and wood exterior exudes a decidedly Moorish atmosphere. Tall replicas of wind towers harkens back to the days of old, when such structures were commonplace. Before the advent of fans or air conditioners, the wind towers were indispensable for cooling and ventilating homes. The Medinat’s adjacent wing accommodates its restaurants, cavernous ballrooms and an opulent shopping mall. All along the corridors of the mall, intricately carved solid wood archways and pillars hold up the wood panelled roof. Large Moroccan lamps suspended high aloft, bathe the mall in soft light creating an ethereal ambience. High end to mid range boutiques, shops, cafes and eateries share this exclusive retail space.
The majestic Wafi City Mall is an Egyptian inspired shopping complex. On its roof top sits several clear and stained glass pyramids depicting Egyptian flora and fauna and scenes from ancient Egypt. Inside, massive columns engraved with gold hieroglyphs surround the mall’s lobby. A six storey high stained glass, floor to ceiling, window featuring a pair of winged females Egyptian goddesses takes pride of place where the escalators are. The sun pierces through the stained glass showering the entire place with brilliant shards of kaleidoscopic light. Outside, more shops are enshrined in a sandstone mausoleum, topped with its own pyramid and flanked by a pair of obelisks and 4 stone sentinels. Large hieroglyphs of Egyptian gods cover the exposed walls. Again, the occupants of this mall are made up of high end to mid range retailers. The Burjuman is another absolute must see. Recently renovated to a tune of US$700 million, it is another spectacular work of modern construction and design. It boasts 300 boutiques, mostly big name designers and the exclusive Saks Fifth Avenue, the only one outside the US.
For thrill seekers, the 12 acre Wild Wadi water park is an absolute must-try! The convoluted maze of water roller coaster rides has you sitting on an oversized inflated rubber ring, while powerful water jets propel you up to 15 metres uphill and collaborates with gravity for the ride downhill. The Tunnel of Doom is shrouded in complete darkness and the unpredictable twists and turns make it utterly exhilarating! Towering over the Wild Wadi is the infamous 33 metres high Jumeirah Sceirah. It is a water slide definitely not for the faint hearted or those afflicted with vertigo. With speeds of up to 80 km/h, adrenaline junkies like myself, will love this ride. But be warned, you will come off this ride with a slapped back, sore butt and a wedgie! The Wipe-out and Riptide offer platforms for people keen to exhibit their surfing skills. Wave pools, lagoons, waterfalls and a lazy river are other attractions at the park. A visit to Wild Wadi promises hours of fun filled activity, just remember to slather on the sun block!
Taking a leisurely ride on an abra or water taxi is a quaint and cheap way of crossing the crystal clear waters of Dubai Creek. On either side are the gold, textile and spice souqs. These souqs give an insight to the more traditional aspect of Emirati life. Haggling over prices is a must and is part and parcel of the shopping experience at these shops. In fact, shopkeepers would be offended if you didn’t!Cars are a nati
onal obsession. The number of cars that a household has is directly proportional to the number of family members who are of eligible driving age. This exceptionally high population of cars explains the horrific traffic during peak hours, usually at dusk. Besides the Japanese makes, flashy cars like Lotuses, Ferraris, BMWs, Mercedes Benzes are a common sight. However, I did find it rather surreal, when I observed that most cars on the roads, even the taxis, seemed so new! I merely attributed this to fanatic car enthusiasm comprising of fastidious cleaning and meticulous polishing. But a chat with a taxi driver revealed an astounding rate of motor vehicular turnover. It seems that the average age of cars in Dubai is an obscene 2 years! Newer car models are continuously coveted, pursued and acquired. Last season’s cars are cast aside and sold to the less well off Middle Eastern countries!
When compared to the other Gulf states, incredibly fast-growing Dubai is undeniably a contender for, if not already a winner of, the title of most cosmopolitan. Due to the burgeoning tourism industry and increasing foreign investments, the locals have become accustomed to the presence of foreigners and are unperturbed and even blasé about them. For the citizens of the more austere Gulf States, Dubai is a haven for their frequent weekend getaways. It offers welcome respite from the stifling restrictions and strict regulations that shackle them in their native lands. So on weekends, it is not uncommon to see Saudis and Kuwaitis, to name a few, inundating Dubai to get their fill of entertainment and alcohol. In Dubai, you will find an eclectic mix of people and culture. For me, Dubai has been an excellent prelude to the Middle East; it was truly a fun, eye opening and memorable experience.
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