Wednesday, November 17, 2004

 

Ramadan in the Middle East - November 2004

Ramadan is the holy fasting month for Muslims all around the world. During daylight hours, Muslims are required to abstain from daily pleasures like eating, drinking, smoking and sex. The fast is typically broken when the sun sets. In the Middle East the breaking of the fast is known as Iftar which involves much revelry and celebration. Tents are erected in hotels, malls and outside almost every mosque for the nightly Iftar parties. A spread of sumptuous Middle Eastern cuisine and the ubiquitous sheesha await the faithful. It is also common for restaurants to offer Iftar banquets during this holy month. Ramadan is a very social event in the Middle East. After a long day’s fast, Muslims will visit friends and relatives to strengthen the ties of brotherhood and bask in the mutual feelings of pride and accomplishment. The Quran dictates that a Muslim is required to pray 5 times daily, but during Ramadan a set of 2 additional prayers is included for the special occasion.

Islamic practices for Ramadan vary from country to country. Generally, most businesses, shops and eateries are closed during daylight hours. Most employees enjoy shorter working hours during Ramadan. In Dubai, the doors to fast food chains are usually closed but their drive-through remains open for the benefit of non-Muslims. Food can be discreetly purchased away from the public eye and thus effectively avoiding any cause for offence to fasting Muslims. The UAE is considerably more open and cosmopolitan than its counterparts in the Gulf. It is a fast growing business and tourist hotspot. Therefore, it has evolved and become far more receptive to the ideas of compromise and adaptation than other states. However, non-Muslims are advised to refrain from eating, drinking and smoking in public as it is considered rude. This understanding and lenient approach bears no legal repercussions against people who choose to do so. In Egypt, non-Muslims can go about their daily business without fear of any ramifications.

It is a completely different situation in Kuwait, where the mighty iron fist of Islam rules! Anyone, regardless of race or religion, caught eating, drinking or smoking in public will run the risk of being persecuted and thrown in jail till the end of Ramadan. For non-Muslims, indulging in these daily routines is permissible in the privacy of your own home, provided your doors are closed and curtains drawn. Should a Kuwaiti spot you through the misfortune of an opened window, to assuage his indignation, he can and will report you!

Ramadan in Kuwait has not been as harrowing an experience as I had imagined. It was relatively easy to survive Ramadan here as I usually did not venture out in the day. It was quite pointless actually, because the malls and shops were closed, even vending machines were turned off. But ironically, the supermarkets remained open 24/7! By day, Kuwait was a veritable ghost town; the streets were empty and almost devoid of people. But when night fell, it was bedlam, the Kuwaitis spilled into the streets and malls. The shops and malls re-opened and stayed open till 2 to 3 am. The roads were choked with horrific traffic and car-parks were filled to capacity. Even kerbs were turned into illegal makeshift parking spaces. Car horns blared and wheels screeched while fireworks exploded in the background, creating a disharmonious racket. And then at 4.30 am, give or take a couple of minutes, Kuwait reveberated with the prayer calls from hundreds of minarets.

Ramadan ended with the congratulatory celebrations of Eid-Al-Fitr followed by 3 days of holiday. More praying, feasting, visiting, back patting and fireworks ensue. And thereafter Kuwaiti life went back to its normal chaotic and incomprehensible self.

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