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The moment I arrived at Dubai International Airport, it struck me how much it has evolved since my last transit there in 1995. Back then, it was an old and grimy airport in dire need for renovations and better coordination. Today it is a new, bright and ultra modern airport with the main terminal building shaped like the long body of a colossal aircraft. Exiting the airport, I noticed major construction work going on around the building. I’m assuming that another terminal is soon to be on its way.

Life in the Gulf revolves around the Islamic faith and calendar. And Dubai is no exception. Their weekends, unlike those who subscribe to the Gregorian calendar, fall on Thursdays and Fridays. Prayers constitute an integral role in Islam. Hence the prolific existence of their countless mosques, where calls to prayer resound without fail from their minarets 5 times daily. Being an Islamic state has not necessarily compromised Dubai’s levels of tolerance and liberalism. Comparatively, Dubai is only second to Bahrain and thankfully not as extreme as Saudi Arabia. Nonetheless, it is still a relatively conservative country, and to avoid offending local sensibilities, a little common sense goes a long way. For women, steer clear of mini skirts, bikini tops or hot pants and men should avoid overly tight clothes or walking around bare-chested. Alcohol is freely available to non-Muslims in most hotels, restaurants and night spots. It can also be purchased by non-Muslims in shops provided a liquor license is first obtained. To ensure that the license is not abused, a monthly quota is enforced. Arabic is the official language but English is widely spoken and most signs are bilingual. Dubai is very safe as crime rates are considered very low. It is also notoriously expensive, as almost everything is imported due to the absence of other natural resources besides oil. However, their gold prices are among the lowest in the world as it is tax free! Armies of workers are imported from the Philippines, India, Sri Lanka, Egypt and Pakistan to staff the hotels, fast food chains, restaurants, shops and malls. Taxis are metered and spotlessly clean with English speaking drivers. There is a diversity of cuisines available, ranging from Middle Eastern to Asian to Western. Fast food franchises and coffee chains are abundant too.

The UAE is an oil rich country which has no qualms about demonstrating this fact. Dubai could well be a showcase for the country’s incredible affluence. However, Dubai’s wealth is not built solely upon the country’s oil reserves. Resisting complacency, forward thinking and a more liberal approach has spawned money spinners like a free trade port, tourism, foreign investments and property developments. It is plainly obvious that their wealth has not been frivolously squandered with absolutely nothing to show for. On the contrary, it is evident that their funds have been astutely invested. Dubai’s infrastructural tapestry is woven with a network of comfortingly smooth, wide and well lit roads, modern flyovers, highways and bridges against a backdrop of spectacular hotels and imposing skyscrapers. Several of which are evocative of American skyscrapers with their art deco influence. While others, like the Emirates Towers, are eye catching glass and steel marvels. Dubai has unmistakably made the most of today’s international architectural talents who make its skyline their canvas. The cosmopolitan masterpiece that is Dubai is still far from completion. Other notable projects currently being undertaken are the city’s under and over ground monorail system; the world’s next tallest tower – Burj Dubai and the luxurious offshore residential developments – The World and The Palm, where luminaries like royalty, tycoons, moguls and stars such as David Beckham have already booked their units.

Dubai’s long summers are unbearably hot and uncomfortably humid, temperatures hover around a sweltering 32 C to 42 C with virtually no rainfall. Even under such severe conditions, the native date palm and desert brush manage to thrive. A massive effort to introduce more greenery into this desert climate has resulted in an extensive irrigation system which employs miles of concentrically laid black water hoses. The embedded hoses supply life giving water to non-indigenous plants that would otherwise be unable to survive in this harsh and parched environment. And this effort has paid off with oases of lush vegetation providing a soft contrast to the otherwise stark steel and concrete jungle. This feat is nothing short of a miracle, considering that Dubai has very limited natural fresh water reserves, which is a frightening reality. But to overcome this situation, Dubai and all the other desert states produce water by desalinating vast quantities of sea water.

At present, the jewel in Dubai’s crown is indisputably the breathtaking Burj Al Arab; the world’s only seven star hotel. Needless to say, its rates are astronomical. This architectural wonder sits on a man-made island accessible by its very own causeway. Its design was inspired by their traditional fishing boats called dhows. The front of the hotel boasts a convex façade simulating the billowing sails of the dhow. The bar cum viewing deck seems precariously perched at the top of the hotel and looks out to the Arabian Gulf. It is housed in an elongated gravity defying capsule, above it, a circular helipad and beyond that, the hotel’s spire. Together, the sum of these parts, create the iconic silhouette that has now become synonymous with Dubai. Located just a stone’s throw away from the Burj Al Arab, is another prominent hotel worth mentioning, The Jumeirah Beach Hotel. It too draws inspiration from seafaring traditions, with its bold design featuring sensuous undulating curves mirroring a breaking wave. The Jumeirah has its own private beach, and thanks to its close proximity to the Burj Al Arab, offers guests an unobstructed and commanding view of it. This is indeed the next best thing as the Burj Al Arab’s cardiac arrest inducing rates are rather prohibitive and beyond the reach of the general populus. The unique architecture of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel definitely warrants a visit and makes it a fantastic subject for shutterbugs. For those who crave a more exotic setting, The Medinat Jumeirah Hotel with its old world charm would be ideal. It is a theme hotel along the vein of The Venetian in Las Vegas. The Medinat Jumeirah pays tribute to Dubai’s heritage and is styled after an Arabian citadel. This huge hotel complex comes complete with ornately decorated bridges spanning a large, albeit artificial, body of water on which dhows serenely drift upon. The Medinat’s sandstone and wood exterior exudes a decidedly Moorish atmosphere. Tall replicas of wind towers harkens back to the days of old, when such structures were commonplace. Before the advent of fans or air conditioners, the wind towers were indispensable for cooling and ventilating homes. The Medinat’s adjacent wing accommodates its restaurants, cavernous ballrooms and an opulent shopping mall. All along the corridors of the mall, intricately carved solid wood archways and pillars hold up the wood panelled roof. Large Moroccan lamps suspended high aloft, bathe the mall in soft light creating an ethereal ambience. High end to mid range boutiques, shops, cafes and eateries share this exclusive retail space.

The majestic Wafi City Mall is an Egyptian inspired shopping complex. On its roof top sits several clear and stained glass pyramids depicting Egyptian flora and fauna and scenes from ancient Egypt. Inside, massive columns engraved with gold hieroglyphs surround the mall’s lobby. A six storey high stained glass, floor to ceiling, window featuring a pair of winged females Egyptian goddesses takes pride of place where the escalators are. The sun pierces through the stained glass showering the entire place with brilliant shards of kaleidoscopic light. Outside, more shops are enshrined in a sandstone mausoleum, topped with its own pyramid and flanked by a pair of obelisks and 4 stone sentinels. Large hieroglyphs of Egyptian gods cover the exposed walls. Again, the occupants of this mall are made up of high end to mid range retailers. The Burjuman is another absolute must see. Recently renovated to a tune of US$700 million, it is another spectacular work of modern construction and design. It boasts 300 boutiques, mostly big name designers and the exclusive Saks Fifth Avenue, the only one outside the US.

For thrill seekers, the 12 acre Wild Wadi water park is an absolute must-try! The convoluted maze of water roller coaster rides has you sitting on an oversized inflated rubber ring, while powerful water jets propel you up to 15 metres uphill and collaborates with gravity for the ride downhill. The Tunnel of Doom is shrouded in complete darkness and the unpredictable twists and turns make it utterly exhilarating! Towering over the Wild Wadi is the infamous 33 metres high Jumeirah Sceirah. It is a water slide definitely not for the faint hearted or those afflicted with vertigo. With speeds of up to 80 km/h, adrenaline junkies like myself, will love this ride. But be warned, you will come off this ride with a slapped back, sore butt and a wedgie! The Wipe-out and Riptide offer platforms for people keen to exhibit their surfing skills. Wave pools, lagoons, waterfalls and a lazy river are other attractions at the park. A visit to Wild Wadi promises hours of fun filled activity, just remember to slather on the sun block!

Taking a leisurely ride on an abra or water taxi is a quaint and cheap way of crossing the crystal clear waters of Dubai Creek. On either side are the gold, textile and spice souqs. These souqs give an insight to the more traditional aspect of Emirati life. Haggling over prices is a must and is part and parcel of the shopping experience at these shops. In fact, shopkeepers would be offended if you didn’t!


Cars are a national obsession. The number of cars that a household has is directly proportional to the number of family members who are of eligible driving age. This exceptionally high population of cars explains the horrific traffic during peak hours, usually at dusk. Besides the Japanese makes, flashy cars like Lotuses, Ferraris, BMWs, Mercedes Benzes are a common sight. However, I did find it rather surreal, when I observed that most cars on the roads, even the taxis, seemed so new! I merely attributed this to fanatic car enthusiasm comprising of fastidious cleaning and meticulous polishing. But a chat with a taxi driver revealed an astounding rate of motor vehicular turnover. It seems that the average age of cars in Dubai is an obscene 2 years! Newer car models are continuously coveted, pursued and acquired. Last season’s cars are cast aside and sold to the less well off Middle Eastern countries!

When compared to the other Gulf states, incredibly fast-growing Dubai is undeniably a contender for, if not already a winner of, the title of most cosmopolitan. Due to the burgeoning tourism industry and increasing foreign investments, the locals have become accustomed to the presence of foreigners and are unperturbed and even blasé about them. For the citizens of the more austere Gulf States, Dubai is a haven for their frequent weekend getaways. It offers welcome respite from the stifling restrictions and strict regulations that shackle them in their native lands. So on weekends, it is not uncommon to see Saudis and Kuwaitis, to name a few, inundating Dubai to get their fill of entertainment and alcohol. In Dubai, you will find an eclectic mix of people and culture. For me, Dubai has been an excellent prelude to the Middle East; it was truly a fun, eye opening and memorable experience.