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Located in the south-east is Busan, the second largest city in Korea. With its impressive Gwangan Grand Bridge, the famous Haeundae beach, beautiful marinas, high rise apartment blocks with under floor heating, it is difficult to imagine Busan in tumultuous times, all those years ago. During the Korean War in the 1950s, Busan was where the South Koreans and her allies stood their ground before the start of daring offensive manoeuvres, via Incheon, which reclaimed the rest of South Korea from the invading North Koreans. Technically, the 2 Koreas are still at war as a peace treaty was never signed. Today Busan is as modern and efficient as Seoul. It too has a clean and reliable subway system, albeit not as extensive as the 10 lines network in Seoul. Comparatively, its modest 2 lines network is new and very simple to use.

Being situated on the coastline of Korea makes Busan a seafood haven. Jagalchi market, one of Korea’s largest open air and indoor seafood markets is found in Busan. A mind boggling array of live fish, squid, spider crabs, sea cucumbers, sea slugs, clams, the ubiquitous live octopus and all manner of seafood is found at this delightful and colourful market. The Korean obsession with live octopus stems from the belief that it makes them strong. You can find them in restaurants, eateries, street vendors and even right at your door step. Trucks have been modified and fitted with aquariums filled with baby octopuses, and they park themselves at the foot of apartments for your convenience. I didn’t have the heart to try this local delicacy despite news from a marine biologist stating that octopuses are constructed with simple central nervous systems thus the inability to feel much pain. Consuming live octopus has inherent risks and proved fatal for a few inebriated men! There have been reported cases where the suckers on the severed tentacles have latched themselves onto the throat, thereby suffocating the unfortunate diner!

Dogs are very popular in Korea too, not as food but as pets. The custom of eating dog meat is slowly fading. Only men eat it, and it is consumed only during summer time. Dogs meant for the table are specially bred in farms, and contrary to popular belief, pets are not eaten. Pet shops can take up an entire street! Korea is extremely dog-friendly; dogs can be seen in shopping malls and even domestic airports! The toy breeds tend to be the most popular.

There exists a gay scene in Busan, but on a much smaller scale compared to Seoul. I attempted a venture to a favourite gay hang out, the very straight Hur Shim Chung Hot Spring. It is claimed that straight boys from various sports teams converge at this establishment to reputedly rough house in the nude! Hence its popularity with the gay crowd! However, I will never know, as upon arrival, I found the place to be closed for renovations. Thwarted yet again, I finally conceded defeat and decided to give up completely on my exploration of the gay scene in Korea!

Recycling is huge in Korea. Yet again, another laudable and worthy exercise that not enough countries participate in! Thrash is comprehensively sorted by paper, glass, plastics, metals and organic waste. This green movement is far reaching and all encompassing; EVERYBODY young and old does it, from apartment blocks, to houses, to shops, to malls! At supermarkets and shops, customers are encouraged to either bring their own bags or to utilise the free recycled cardboard boxes to put their goods in. Plastic bags are sold to customers, not given free with purchases as expected. Television ads teach and inform viewers the importance of recycling thus instilling continued environmental consciousness. The country’s green efforts are genuine and not just a token measure! Admirable!